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Author Topic: Using an oil additive to prolong life of parts such as duralube or slick 50 Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-26-2007 11:08 AM                        Anyone every try this? or know of it has been done? For movements, gears boxes, bearings, bushings? I was thinking it about to day when discussing oil in another thread. I wonder if it would be beneficial? mike  |  IP: Logged Aaron Mehocic Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 804 From: New Castle, PA, USA Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-26-2007 12:18 PM                     Yeah, I've tried Slick 50 in two engines for my car like the stuff is supposedly made for - and both engines blew up! Stay away from that stuff. And for the record, no I wouldn't recommend it for projectors either.  |  IP: Logged Robert Minichino Master Film Handler Posts: 350 From: Haskell, NJ, USA Registered: Dec 2005 posted 05-26-2007 12:45 PM                        Most oil additives (especially ones containing teflon) are either worthless or, worse, harmful. Teflon is a solid and won't stay in suspension and has a tendency of accumulating in pumps and filters and gumming things up.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-26-2007 01:57 PM                     Teflon is not all bad...I haven't experimented with it in oil but in grease...it seems to do well...like on Century gears. Ever measured the temp of a gear mesh in a Century with standard TU-235 and then measure it again with SuperLube (a teflon type grease)...it is notably lower...denoting less friction. Superlube also tends to cling to the gears better offering longer lubrication too.  |  IP: Logged Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-26-2007 02:12 PM                        When I use to restore Shopsmith 10er's a while back I discovered Superlube grease worked wonderfully on the main spindle, shaft and gears; it is great stuff! It is a silicone base with PTFE (Teflon). By far the best grease I have seen, however I think it is a little too expensive per unit! About $7.99 per oz in my area. I wish I could find it cheaper. I'm not saying go wilynily and use only slick 50, but use a smaller ratio, like a 1:20 dilution or 1:40 dilution slick 50 to projector oil. Last time I got intermittent oil from CPI it looked like water and was just as thin! Then I got some from Wolk and it was like 5W-20 motor oil and amber! I just wonder if any of the companies follow the original specs for oil viscosity when they bulk buy it and re-bottle? Or is it what ever is cheapest that month when they buy? Mike  |  IP: Logged Darryl Spicer Film God Posts: 3250 From: Lexington, KY, USA Registered: Dec 2000 posted 05-26-2007 02:15 PM                    Don't put that stuff or any additive for that matter in your car if it is still under warranty on the engine. Warranties will not cover any problems with the engine if it is found that the problems were caused by additives.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-26-2007 02:48 PM                     Why not just use the genuine stuff? Why the rebottled who knows what it is? In a film projector...what is the annual consumption of oil and cost/year in oil if you use the super high priced genuine oils and lubricants? It just isn't high enough to worry about and the sludge I see coming out of knockoffs causes more harm than good....I'd swear the projector would have been better off with running stale outdated oil that has no more lubricating properties left than the crud I've seen in knock offs. Steve  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-26-2007 03:01 PM                     I prefer synthetics over any other type of regular oil/grease lubricant provided there is one available that is the correct viscosity for the intended use. Synthetics tend to cover a wider temperature range and last far longer... they are alot slipperier and generate less particulate mater. Overall your machine will last much longer. Funny thing about projector oils from Strong is they are ALL the same! If you buy Simplex, Century or Ballantyne you get the exact same oil... we had them tested locally. The only oil we re-package is for the DP-70. Its is the same oil that has been used in them since they appeared and we also reccomend LaVezzi oil in the DP-70 as well if you want to spend the $$ on it. The only additive I've ever used is Marvel Mystery Oil. But only on 35mm film camera movements. A mixture of 50% mineral oil and 50% Marvel worksgreat on Mitchell movements. Apparently this mixture has been used in Hollywood for decades. Many new cars have engines that require the use of synthetic oil only and using any other will void the warranty. Mark  |  IP: Logged Jarryd Beard Expert Film Handler Posts: 229 From: Hellertown, PA Registered: Jul 2004 posted 05-26-2007 03:18 PM                     quote: Mark Gulbrandsen they are alot slipperier Around these parts, you might hear someone say they are a lot "slippier." Sorry I had nothing better to contribute to this discussion. BTW, there is an old quart of Duralube sitting up in our booth. I've never used it, but someone must have tried it a one point. It probably should be thrown away.  |  IP: Logged Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-26-2007 03:41 PM                        When ever I have ordered from my local suppliers, they have sent me either CPI oil, or Oil that says ED Wolk on it. I even tell them I want genuine Simplex oil for a Simplex machine and they send me I think what ever they have in stock at the time. I guess I could go through strong and get it. But if Mark is right maybe they are all using the same oil for almost everything out there now (Wrong Strong that is). Here's a good one, I'm getting a century in a few days from Louis, I wonder if I can use my left over oil I have from my simplex? It would be a shame to just chuck it. Anyone need a few quarts of simplex oil? Mike  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-26-2007 03:41 PM                     Hmmm....then something has changed. Century oil was decidely thicker and a different odor than say Simplex. As to DP70...they have traditionally used Shell Turbo.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 05-26-2007 05:01 PM                        The only oil we suggest is 30 wt non detergent for soundheads and 10 weight non detergent for Simplex and Century. Our source for this is a mil spec Chevron oil for jet engines. Really just a tight spec with no additives. My gripe is a mixture of lubriplate and something which sets up dissimiliar metals corrorion in Centurys and, when packed unto the Simplex later guide assembly, dries hard like concrete. Only gasoline will dissolve it. The state of Indiana is full of this, so much so, that I take 10 lateral guide assem blies with me when I go to a new theatre. Louis  |  IP: Logged Jack Ondracek Film God Posts: 2348 From: Port Orchard, WA, USA Registered: Oct 2002 posted 05-26-2007 05:14 PM                        I've seen this subject come up before, and it reminds me of the attitude of a late friend of mine. He bought his two theatres from his father in-law, and acquired many of his maintenance habits from him as well. For all the years he was in the business, he used non-detergent automotive oil in his intermittents, purchased at the local auto parts shop. While I understand the motives here, and read the posts with interest, I can't help but imagine that my friend would comment that there had been car oil in his machines since they were new (in 1947), and they're still in service today... running just fine. I wouldn't do it, but it would be hard to argue the point with him.  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: California, U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-26-2007 05:34 PM                     quote: Last time I got intermittent oil from CPI it looked like water and was just as thin! CPI oil looks different every time. It's horrid. Presently we've been sourcing oil from Jack Roe with no problems. Simplex/Century oil be the same thing these days and works swimmingly. Whether or not the machine can handle it I generally try and get the oil changed every 500-1000 hours. It's el cheapo so I say, an ounce of prevention, yadda yadda yadda.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 05-26-2007 05:47 PM                     (I shoot AMSOIL 5w30 in my vehicles and love the stuff) AMSOIL - pure synthetic product www.amsoil.com When I bought my gallon of 5w30 from a dealer, he right off knew that I was planning on keeping my car for as long as I can.. Their tranny oils, fluids and greases are great as well .. Yes, stay away from additives, for at one time, the auto retail supply places use to stock tons of this stuff, including Slick 50, Energy Release, Duralube, ...et.al. Now, they have all but disappeared..  |  IP: Logged

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