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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Topic: Picture not square on screen?!
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God
Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 11-26-2007 09:12 PM
Find the center of the screen, put a piece of masking tape on the bottom black masking (or a small strip of black tape if have floating screens..) border at dead center, get some PA-35 (RP40)test film, roll it in the projector with apertures out, shoot it through a flat lens and the vertical centerline of the PA-35 should hit the tape marking for machine center.
If not square, you got some machine scooting to do, then recut new apertures to fit both formats.
Now, if you got Centurys, there is that lens adjuster that can be used to center the lens to screen.
And turrets are easy to get things to center. Thing with the scope lens is that you got to do a bit of multiple adjustments to get that lens to center - with azmuth along with vertical and lateral adjustments.
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Brad Miller
Administrator
Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-27-2007 12:37 AM
Sort of Monte, but not quite.
Level the machine first using the flat lens!!! (Just rack a film out of frame if you don't have PA35 test film, but rack it from the bottom a foot, level the machine, then rack it a foot from the top and verify the leveling is still equal...if not split the difference.) Then and ONLY then rotate the scope in the lens holder if it is not level. That may be close enough to solve your problem, although don't be surprised if the apertures then are suddenly lousy. (There is more to it than this, but that is the basic procedure in trivialized form.)
Also if your machine is indeed off center, that old fashioned trick of putting tape in the center of the screen is useless...unless you like cropping part of your image! Think about it. If your machine is off center to the left by a few feet and you have that white tape dead centered left to right on the physical screen, you will have more width on the right side of the projected picture than the left. As such if you go by that tape, you will end up cutting off a bit of information on the right side of the picture.
I've never understood why everyone is so damn set on using that silly tape method, especially 2 projector changeover setups! Just use the markings on the projected PA35 and compare the left edge to the right edge. It is far more accurate.
Anyway Joseph, can you possibly take a digital picture of your screen during that first 11 minutes? Alternatively if you are afraid the feds will knock on your door for posting an image shot off of the screen while you are trying to improve that movie's presentation, find yourself one of those scope trailers that have black matting on the left and right sides and make a loop out of the green band and photograph that. Being able to see how much it is off will help diagnose better.
Also take a picture of your projector so we can see what you are running so the help will be more specific to your equipment.
If you have a turret you are so in luck, because in a nutshell (again I am trivializing here), you can square off the projector to the booth wall (trivializing here people) and adjust the lens so the image is moved left to right or up and down to minimize or totally eliminate that keystoning. I ALWAYS go through this when setting up a new installation and then fine tune things with a fresh piece of PA35 and a set of binoculars to tweek all 4 corners to resolve the same lines. (Scope astigmatism should also be done through the lens and via binoculars to minimize chromatic aberration).
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