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Author Topic: Need some input on using a Goldberg reel... Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-13-2008 10:56 PM                        I just received a Goldberg reel and I'm not clear on a couple things from reading the instructions. When building up onto the reel, do I want to have one of those foam spacers between the reel and the film? What about the white band with the Velcro closures. When I load it on the platter, how am I supposed to get the top flange off. Is there a trick to centering the film or do I just have to eyeball it? Brad mentioned sliding the bottom reel off so the reel can be reused right away. Did you take the foam pads off the outside of the reel? Aside from that, I can see how this would work. Other than that, any other comments that would be useful?  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-13-2008 11:03 PM                     I never use the foam and such that come with the reel, BUT if you wind it too tight directly onto the hub, you will never get that hub out. You will have to do some experimentation with your particular rewind table to find out what your clutch setting should be set at. The first few times you use it you should wrap the foam around the reel hub and then start winding the film around that. This way once the print is on the platter, you can remove the foam and hub easily. Once you have the print built, with it standing on edge next to the platter, twist the locking screw so that the bottom flange of the reel is free from the hub. Now twist that hub a few inches and place it back up against the print, but not latched to the hub. With the assistance of another person, pinch that flange against the film roll so that the two of you are pinching the two flanges together (with the film in the middle), lift and set on the platter. Then you can remove the top flange and hub and payout the movie off of the bottom flange. Once you do this a couple of times you will be able to see how you can do other tricks so you only need one of these per booth complex.  |  IP: Logged Jim Cassedy Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1661 From: San Francisco, CA Registered: Dec 2006 posted 05-14-2008 12:05 PM                     Are these still available? I'd like to pick one up but wasn't able to find a supplier when I did a quick search online. Who sells them, and what is the approximate price? Whatever they cost, I they seem to be worth the investment. Thanks  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 퍼항시, 경상푹도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 05-14-2008 12:49 PM                     Jim, http://www.rsem.com/equipment-details.asp?partnum=5810001 They're selling it for $441.76 And a smaller one for just under $300 http://www.rsem.com/equipment-details.asp?partnum=5810004  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-14-2008 04:27 PM                     Order it without the stupid "carrying case" and they are noticeably cheaper.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-21-2008 09:24 PM                        I used the Goldberg reel for the first time today to build up Indiana Jones. I'm blown away by how fast it went. Other than having two reels that were tails out, plus the trailers, it was very simple. I'm definitely going to be using a foam strip to make sure I can get the center out. The one issue that concerns me is static. I got several very big jolts. I'll have to see if I can find an old static brush I can rig up on the reel while I'm building up.  |  IP: Logged James Westbrook Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1133 From: Lubbock, Texas, Usa Registered: Mar 2006 posted 05-21-2008 09:41 PM                     How did you get static on build-up? Were you hand-inspecting without grounding yourself? (Hand touching metal next to speed control on Kelmar table?)  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-21-2008 10:52 PM                        I was inspecting as always and I was grounding myself. The only thing I can think is that since I wasn't touching the reel, there wasn't a ground between me and the reel. Then when I touched it to manually wind up the last bit I got a nice shock.  |  IP: Logged Emma Tomiak Expert Film Handler Posts: 238 From: Carrollton, TX, USA Registered: Aug 2003 posted 05-21-2008 11:14 PM                        Let the reel brush up against you a little as you build. You may still get a shock, but it'll be nothing compared to what you've been getting.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-22-2008 03:19 AM                     Using the foam strips that come with the platter reel is the cause of the static due to the uneven wind. Once you have built a FEW prints and figured out exactly where to set your feed reel clutch tension, build your prints without the foam directly onto the hub. Your problem will vanish. Again, make sure you don't overdo the tension! Without the foam in between the film and the hub if you wind it too tight you won't be able to get the hub out.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-22-2008 04:51 AM                        Thanks for the tips. One thing I'm interested in trying is using two foam strips because that will give the right diameter to put a Christie centering ring in the print. Brad, I saw what you put about the static being cause by the foam strips. But I still want to try this out. One foot note that I want to add. I normally wind all film onto the 6000' foot reels with the soundtrack out going over the top (I guess that would mean emulsion side in when the tale is on the outside). It didn't even occur to me that this causes the film to be wrapped opposite of how it feeds off the platter. As a result when I plopped the film on the platter with the soundtrack up, I discovered it was going the wrong way. Fortunately I discovered this as I was going to thread for a dry run so I had time to fix it. I had to carefully pull it off onto 6000's and then wind it back on as I normally would. But I got done with at least 45 minutes to spare before show time.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 05-22-2008 04:54 AM                        Why not just flip it upside down (if you had help available)? Could have saved time. Oh well.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-22-2008 05:17 AM                        I already had the hub out and there was a bulge in the print. I was afraid that flipping it would have made a bigger mess than just pulling it off. I don't feel like it's a total waste because I did figure out a trick or two for dealing with prints that get off center after the ring is out or if I have to break down a print when the ring had been pulled out.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-22-2008 01:50 PM                     The ring isn't that much smaller than the Christie rings. It should be able to pay that out just fine. I do it every week at all of my theaters, and I do not use the foam.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 05-22-2008 03:20 PM                        The main thing I was thinking by using the centering ring was that I could use an upside down ring to help slide the print off the bottom flange of the reel so I can reuse it right away. It might not be necessary, but it seems less risky. It might also make it easier to get the print centered. Brad, I hear what you're saying about these things not being necessary. But I'm trying to come up with procedures that will be workable for the other people who build film.  |  IP: Logged

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