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Author Topic: I need help Breaking Down INDY4 Michael Dolan Film Handler Posts: 77 From: Deerfield Beach, fl. Registered: May 2008 posted 06-10-2008 11:25 AM                        Ok so not this week but next week I will have to breakdown INDY4 at the drive in I just took over. Unfortunetly I did not build it and there are a whole lot of splices in it. I checked the can and it is missing 2 heads and 1 tail. The ones that are in tact don't have any frame matches. So if somebody still has INDY4 playing at there theater and could scan the heads and tails and email them 2 me so thatb I know what frame ends each reel I would greatly appreciate it. I looked in the reel ID area and there aren't any for this movie. Your help will be greatly appreciated think one of you guys may end up with the movie after me. So help me do it right EDIT: removed email address click my profile to receive. thanks paul  |  IP: Logged Paul Goulet Master Film Handler Posts: 347 From: Rhode Island Registered: Jan 2000 posted 06-10-2008 11:30 AM                        As the Jetson’s pet dog Astro says: rutro! quote: Michael Dolan My email is ***@***.*** (email address removed by moderator) quote: RULE #16 You may not post your email address within the body of your posts. Got it? Anyone wanting to contact you may do so by clicking on your profile to obtain your email address. [ 06-10-2008, 11:41 AM: Message edited by: Mike Olpin ]  |  IP: Logged John Walsh Film God Posts: 2490 From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way Registered: Oct 1999 posted 06-10-2008 11:42 AM                     But ... his address is still displayed ...  |  IP: Logged Mike Olpin Chop Chop! Posts: 1852 From: Dallas, TX Registered: Jan 2002 posted 06-10-2008 11:49 AM                     Fixed. Also, please email us to let us know of any issues on the board rather than posting them as a reply, we'll take care of them. Posting about them just distracts from the conversation at hand. Michael, since the print is already chopped up and damaged, the depot probably wont care if the reels are accurate. They wont be saving your print for archival, and they will probably charge your theatre regardless. Still, did you try checking for a motor cue 18 frames before a splice? That would positively identify the end of a reel.  |  IP: Logged Phil Ranucci Expert Film Handler Posts: 236 From: Carpinteria,CA, United States Registered: May 2006 posted 06-10-2008 11:56 AM                     Also on the last show watch for the cue marks and put a piece of paper into the platter so you know where the reel ends are.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-10-2008 12:11 PM                     Mike and Phil already posted the trick. Just look for the changeover cue about a foot prior to the splice in the corner of the image on the tail of each reel. Also bear in mind, if you stop at a splice and find that the image on both sides is the same...that's not it.  |  IP: Logged Michael Dolan Film Handler Posts: 77 From: Deerfield Beach, fl. Registered: May 2008 posted 06-10-2008 12:20 PM                        quote: Mike Olpin did you try checking for a motor cue 18 frames before a splice? That would positively identify the end of a reel. The film is still running right now but I thought about doing that when I started to break it down. Just trying to find a more lazy way out if you know what I mean. I really just dont want to end up there till 6:00am. As it is the last show doesn't end till about 2:30 in the morning already. quote: Phil Ranucci Also on the last show watch for the cue marks and put a piece of paper into the platter so you know where the reel ends are. Thats a great idea phil I can't believe i Didn't think of that. I'm sure that will help alot. Thanks for your quick response guys.  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-10-2008 02:58 PM                     I'm not saying that it is acceptable but you don't absolutely need both the head and tail for every reel. A professional returns his prints in similar condition to the way he received them and, if possible, in better condition. However, if one or the other are missing, it is still possible to identify a reel. Just use process of elimination. If I HAD to lose one or the other and I had my druthers as to which one to keep, I'd choose the head leader. That's where the timing marks and other information are. Losing the tail of a reel, although not good, isn't as important. Thus, if you are missing the tail of a reel, you can just use some old film you have in your booth like a 10 foot chunk of an old trailer. If you can find one or more sections of black film at the beginning or end of some old trailers, you can cut them out and save them just for the purpose. It's nowhere near as elegant as having the original tails like you were supposed to but, in the interest of protecting the film for handling and shipment it will do. If it's the head leader that's missing you're going to need to use something else. When I inspect my leaders that I use to thread prints I like to take film out of service BEFORE it gets too old and tattered to use. I try to keep enough new leader on hand just so I have the luxury. Then, if somebody trashes up leader when they mis-thread a projector or mishandle a print I have spare leader in the cabinet I can use without sacrificing me new, clean leader for "junky" purposes. I also have the ability to take one of those old pieces of threading leader out of my cabinet and use when the head leaders are missing from a reel. If you can, use a good 20 - 25 feet of it. Splice it in-frame to the head of the print just like you normally would then take a Sharpie marker and note, right on the "new" replacement leader. <TITLE of movie> <REEL # x> Leader replaced <date> <Operator's Intitial> Don't forget! Let the ink dry before you wind it up, lest it smear. Also make sure you write on the OUTSIDE of the film so that, if ink does smear, it only gets on the successive outer layers and NOT on the picture. If your print is as badly chopped up as you say it is, there might be no saving it when it gets back to the depot but, if they see that somebody has owned up to the mess and has done the best they can to rectify the situation they might not charge you for the print or, at least, won't charge you as much. Besides, if for some reason this print gets recirculated the next guy will thank you for making his job a little easier.  |  IP: Logged

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