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Author Topic: Black emulsion scratches and filmguard? Craig Mueller Film Handler Posts: 22 From: Aptos, CA, USA Registered: Aug 2008 posted 12-05-2008 05:15 PM                     Hi everybody, my print of Australia was scratched a couple of days ago by another projectionist making the bottom loop in a simplex 35 too big. The scratches are throughout the movie but mainly are black. I am curious if film guard can remove black emulsion scratches like it can base scratches or if all emulsion scratches, even shallow ones, are permanent. Sorry if this is a repeat of another question, I searched around but couldnt find an answer. Thanks! Craig  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 12-05-2008 05:41 PM                     Hi Craig AUSTRALIA is the last print I'd want to see scratches on so I can appreciate your predicament. So long as the emulsion's still not removed it will get rid of those. If you want to get rid of them immediately, you should take the print back to the rewind bench and apply FG manually, or just do it via your Kelmar Cleaner but it will take a few passes. You may want to re-soak daily to clog up those scratches. Stop re-soaking as soon as you're happy with its progress. Do you currently use FG or will you have to get the gear in? I had a print come in afetr being run in the city with (no kidding) no less than 20 emulsion scratches of various depth across the image. I had it down to one really deep (although borderline to taking the image in places) in four days.  |  IP: Logged Craig Mueller Film Handler Posts: 22 From: Aptos, CA, USA Registered: Aug 2008 posted 12-05-2008 05:57 PM                     No, unfortunately I don't have a cleaner for my theatre, our chain has two but not one for me.. Definitely not my decision, I love the stuff.. The scratches are mainly down the middle of the film, top and bottom, and rarely in the middle (thankfully) and some parts it shows up as yellow, so I am not expecting improvement there, but if the black scratches are able to be reduced that I will pick up a cleaner and go at it. Glad to hear that black scratches may not be permanent. I am curious, what is the general consensus on the movie in Australia, if there is one? It is certainly beautiful, but very Hollywood so I am curious how it was received.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-05-2008 07:24 PM                     Black scratches are usually on the base with emulsion scratches being green or yellow  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 12-05-2008 07:45 PM                     Australia took just over $10million over its first 5 days. As a general comparison, we do around 10% less than what USA does with releases as a general rule. So, it's pretty big here. Reviews are generally more favourable here too...perhaps it's seen as 'unpatriotic' to knock it...I don't know as I haven't seen it yet but will perhaps go this week. Emulsion scratches can be black too, just not too heavy or they take the image. Regardless of which side your scratches are on...if they're black then they're fair game for the FilmGuard machine.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 12-05-2008 07:57 PM                        No they're not! I've seen black base-side scratches unaffected by Filmguard. The person who scratched the print decided that the lower roller was unnecessary and went straight from the failsafes to the first take-up roller on the platter, rubbing the shaft that holds the lower roller. Of course this guy threads so the soundtrack faces toward the wall so we were presented with many very deep base scratches that could not be affected by anything. We couldn't get a replacement print and held onto it for months, of course. [ 12-07-2008, 10:24 AM: Message edited by: Joe Redifer ]  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 12-07-2008 12:53 AM                     It's always the ones you want out of there that like to hang around.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 12-07-2008 01:02 AM                     quote: Craig Mueller another projectionist making the bottom loop in a Simplex 35 too big. The scratches are throughout the movie but mainly are black. Umm...the lower loop would touch the emulsion side of the print if that loop was too big. Plus, if the scratching wasn't deep enough to go into the emulsion itself, it will come out black on the screen. Did you get him straighten out on how big the lower loop should be - a finger's distance between loop and the rear curve plate when the loop is at it's smallest?  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 12-07-2008 02:08 AM                     I'll just point this out yet one more time...since when are two different people's fingers the same size?  |  IP: Logged Kenneth Wuepper Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1026 From: Saginaw, MI, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-07-2008 06:29 AM                     The very best way to assure consistent sound lip sync as well as mechanical stability is to count the number of frames in all loops. KEN  |  IP: Logged Pete Naples Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1565 From: Dunfermline, Scotland Registered: Feb 2001 posted 12-07-2008 06:45 AM                     I now know that there's at least 2 other people on the planet who agree with me on this. As to fingers for sizing loops  |  IP: Logged Kenneth Wuepper Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1026 From: Saginaw, MI, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-07-2008 10:06 AM                     Pete, Thanks for the suggestion. Is the FU finger more consistent in size from person to person than the others? KEN  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 12-07-2008 10:08 AM                     Absolutely.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 12-07-2008 10:26 AM                        The way I do my lower Simplex loops is to make them (at their biggest point) as big as possible so long as it does not make physical contact with the upper part of the metal. Basically the frameline will be in the 11:00 position on the lower constant feed sprocket.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-07-2008 11:30 AM                     The best way is sound diamond across the scaning beam and Pix start in the gate that was the way it was designed  |  IP: Logged

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