|
|
Author
|
Topic: strd 30 question
|
|
|
|
|
Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 06-01-2009 01:02 PM
Is the projector a Simplex or a Century?
LS-30M is the power supply for the reader, IRRC. That is just the unit that powers the reader that lives in the projector. The reader inside the projector is the part that does the "heavy lifting."
Anyway, the LS-30 supply can power units that go inside Simplex or Century projectors. Centuries and Simplexes have different film paths. Troubleshooting film path issues will be different, depending on the projector.
The Ultra-Stereo processor is fairly standard stuff. Look on the left side of the unit. There will be a window with two green bar graphs. Those lights should be flickering to indicate the sound level coming INTO the system.
If those bar graphs are not moving/lighting up that indicates that no signal is getting into the processor. If they indicate good signal, look to the processor/amplifier side of the system. If they are not, look toward the projector end of the system.
In the USL processor there are a couple of buttons that will cut the sound if they are accidentally pressed.
In the center format module, (where you select the sound mode) there is a button marked "Bypass." Check that it is not activated.
There may also be a little silver switch on the format module marked "Local/Remote." This must be set to "Local" or you sound will be cut off.
On the right side power supply there may be a button marked "Standby." (Newer modules don't have this.) Check that it is not activated.
You may think I'm being stupid but I have been tripped up by these seemingly insignificant things myself. When I was doing field service for Cinemark, there was more than one occasion where I had to drive 3 and 4 hours to make an emergency call to theaters where sound systems stopped working, only to find one of these silly switches was accidentally pressed.
BTW: I always clean the sound reader lens with a Q-Tip dipped in lens cleaner, first thing, whenever I do any work on a sound system. I don't know how many times I have seen people slave over a sound system only to find the problem was because of a dirty lens.
This is why you will hear me say it over and over. Check the easy stuff first.
Get all the easy stuff out of the way first. Then the other guys will come in with other solutions.
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 06-01-2009 09:05 PM
Okay, "First Level" easy stuff is all out of the way.
You said that the red LED is lit and a visual inspection shows it to be working. (Nice and bright. Not loose or misaligned. No loose/broken wires.) We can assume that it is okay for the time being. The things that the other guys said are right but we're working down the list of easy stuff. We'll cross those bridges when we come to them.
Look into the projector sound head. Zero in on the black lever you have to close when you thread. There is a silver acorn-shaped knob at the fulcrum of the lever.
The setting of this knob is pretty critical. DO NOT TURN THIS KNOB. Just verify that it hasn't come loose or that somebody hasn't tampered with it.
If this is okay, open the cover to the left hand compartment and look inside. Verify that the wires are all connected, not loose and that there are no frayed wires and crap like that.
While you are in there, verify that the "digital camera" and all its brackets are tight and appear to be aligned properly.
(Yes, I know that little box in there isn't really a digital camera in the true sense of the word but people seem to understand what you're talking about when you call it a "digital camera" instead of "solar cell" or "CCD sensor." I often heard people call the LED a "laser." )
Anyway, we've gone through all the things that the average user can check without using any test equipment. If this doesn't cover it, a service tech will have to come and look at it unless you are handy with an oscilloscope and have the test film and tools needed.
I don't know what your skill level is so I can't really advise you without more information. The other guys have all given you some good ideas to think about.
I like Gordon's idea about the cell going bad. I have had that happen a couple of times. It's worth checking but you'll need equipment and test film to do it. If it is bad, you'll need to replace it.
After this, I'd be guessing without more information..
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
|
|
Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM
6.3.1.2
The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion
and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.
|