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Author
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Topic: Strong Platter Motors
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Richard May
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1057
From: Floral Park, NY USA
Registered: Aug 2004
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posted 01-29-2010 03:06 PM
After searching previous post and finding so many responses on different ones, I decided to start a new post. This has to do with the the older grey motors and the newer black motors. Many people including myself have had issues with the newer black ones being used with the older grey ones on the same platter. I have read posts saying to bypass the diode.....not to bypass the diode.....and so forth. I had called Design and Engineering a few month ago about it, and they told me that they have not heard of any problems. I find that not only hard to believe, but impossible. Anyway, I spoke with someone at Strong the other day who actually has dealt with this issue. He said that as long as you use the black motors on all 3 decks, you will be fine. He also said that if you have to use 1 black motor only, to put it on the bottom deck. He said that they are too unreliable when mixed with the grey motors. As far as the diode goes in the black motor, bypass them when used on the older strong platters regardless of whether or not all 3 decks have them. This has been a problem for a long time around here since these new motors came out. Obviously, rebuilding the old grey ones is the best solution but in case you buy a new black one, this is what you have to deal with.
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God
Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 01-30-2010 12:16 AM
I know that I've chimed on this before, but agree that you buy a motor from STRONG, they're about $440 apiece. But I did post how to rebuild these motors from using vacuum motors from Grainger (2M262 motors),but somehow their operation now is a little different.
Thus, I had to go to the 1/2" sleeve for these rebuilds and will work better with microswitch brains. If you use these retrofit motors on phase control brains, the slight voltage difference caused by the phase control can make the deck run slower in payout RPM's and you'll have wrap problems for the first 10 minutes of the payout.
Yet, the big, big trick in any motor swapout to a new one, is to get the new brushes seated completely on the "com"..and how you do that is mount the motor on the platter tower, unlock the motor from the deck, then plug the MUT in and put the system to "build". Then run the motor in with the knob 2/3'rds open and keep it there for a good hour.
-Monte
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