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Author
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Topic: strong platter control arm moves up and down
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Bernie Anderson Jr
Master Film Handler
Posts: 435
From: Woodbridge, New Jersey
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-30-2010 04:41 PM
I encountered this problem on Thursday. I'm running Strong AP3 platters with Phase control brains. If the control arm is going up and down and pulsing the platters what is happening is the inner contacts on the variac are probably gone.
You need take the variac out. Unplug the platter first. There are three bolts that hold the whole control assembly box to the platter. Remove them and the allen screw that links to the control arm, unplug all three wires connectors in the control box.
To remove the variac from the control box you need to remove the spindle that controls the variac first. There are two set screws on the wiper assembly, loosen them and remove the spindle (should pull straight out). Now, remove the three wires that go to the terminals and the three screws that hold the variac in. It should come right out after that.
Take the bottom plate off the variac (held on with 4 bolts.)
Now on the bottom, there is a retaining spring clip, remove that and the plastic washer. The whole wiper assembly should come out of the variac. On the inside, you will see 3 little piece of copper. They're probably burnt up, and shortened from arching.
To temporary fix them, bend them down a bit and try to clean them as good as possible. Also clean the inner contact ring which is held down with one screw and collar ring. Clean that, its probably burnt up too. Check your brush too. It should be pointed and not flat.
Clean the winding side of the variac. Its probably all black in the area where the platter likes to normally run. Then put it back together. It should get you through and should only take about 15 mins to do. But try and order that whole assembly and contact ring, if you can. Strong will tell you to replace the whole variac for $500. Dumb, especially if you can rebuild it. I'll try and get a part number for it.
Bernie
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God
![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubbmembers/2797c.jpg)
Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 01-30-2010 04:57 PM
I've done variac replacements without removal of the box, but you still have to take out the variac shaft and arm. And to do that, it takes a 1/16" allen wrench (I use a screwdriver allen) to loosen the two allen set screws to remove the shaft and arm from the variac, and these setscrews are located between the rotor and the body of the variac.
Parts for the Staco 1010 variac
2103 Contact ass'y Variac 1005 Brush, Variac
Sad thing, if the contact rotor is pitted due to a worn button, that will also have to be replaced, which entails a new Pt # 1006 Transformer 110v replacement kit.
If you have to replace the variac, the three holes have to be tapped out with a 1/4x20 tap for the mounting screws to work since the new variac will not have holes tapped out for mounting screws-even though the screws themselves are self-tapping, but it's a lot easier to mount the variac in the box with the holes already tapped.
Then, come the instructions on how to set "mechanical zero": after this is all done and installed: You lift the "trombone" all the way to the top, hold it, and have that arm loosened. You turn the shaft all the way counter-clockwise til it stops then turn the shaft about 2* clockwise then lock down that arm on the shaft. Then you can lowe the "trombone"
Should be set to go.
Course, if you have an extra MUT, you can snag the variac out of that one for the problem platter -Monte
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