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Author Topic: Christie SLC Lamphouse - Hard to strike Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-21-2010 08:22 AM                        Preface: 1 - I have a Christie SLC-30 lamphouse that is using Christie CXL-20 bulbs (the rectifier is turned down to allow this). I have used an amp clamp or whatever it is called to verify the amperage and voltage (that part checked with a multimeter) do not exceed 2000 watts as I never trust the amp meters on any lamphouse. It runs at about 1920 watts or so, if I recall. 2 - About a month ago I also posted about the intake blower having a very difficult time starting up in the morning and that I never let them turn off at night (or ever) as a result. This has yet to be replaced (does anyone have a part number for the intake blower assembly from Christie? It's not in the Manuals section). The motor for this part is clearly wearing out, yet is still strong enough to give me a green light on the side of the lamphouse. However a manager has reported that the green light went off for him one day and the bulb would not even try to strike, but after multiple tries it stayed on and finally worked. There is no wind vane for the exhaust in ANY of our lamphouses, but I can feel the air sucking to the roof. The roof exhaust is always on, 24/7. 3 - These lamphouses were purchased used locally and I have no idea what their history might be, but I doubt that they were well maintained in their previous life. Problem: This lamphouse usually takes anywhere from 7-15 strikes to ignite a bulb and have it stay lit (which is probably murder on the bulb). When I put a brand new bulb in, it strikes right away the first time, every time. But a week later it is taking upwards of 5 strikes to ignite and the number of strikes required will probably increase each week. So might there be a ventilation issue where the bulb is wearing out prematurely? The lamphouse never seems excessively hot. Or should I just get a new igniter? I have had tons upon tons of issues with igniters in the past with Christie SLC lamphouses at other theaters and have replaced them quite often, but I have never seen a bad igniter able to strike a new bulb with a single strike. Basically I think it is the igniter, but I just want a second, third or 20th opinion. I'm just glad I don't have the Christie rectifier buzz.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 03-21-2010 09:39 AM                        The key is that you are running 2000 watts in a 3k lamphouse. To do this you lower the current. When current is low, the no load voltage drops also. Inside each Christie rectifier is a second SET of windings for no-load. It is possible to regain the lost no load voltage by retapping this additional set of windings. btw: I wonder how many Christie rectifiers had exploded capacitors when some one reversed the process and did not know to set the no-load lower. I'm sure the igniter is fine. This situation would grow worse as the bulb ages. New bulb: no problem. Louis  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-21-2010 10:01 AM                        Could you elaborate on your second paragraph? Would it require removing the rectifier? I increased the power substantially once and put a 3K bulb in there. It lit, but was extraordinarily dim.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-21-2010 02:40 PM                     quote: Joe Redifer I increased the power substantially once and put a 3K bulb in there. It lit, but was extraordinarily dim. That is easy to explain as the 3k bulb is physically longer and your rear support needs to have a spacer added to bring the bulb back into focus range. (If it's like the older CH series, the spacer is a trapezoid-shaped part that goes between the casting and the rear support where it is attached with the four screws.) The striking problem is because of the no-load being too low as was already mentioned. I think the no-load taps are the two small wires under the tap studs, but it's been ages since I was in one of those consoles.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 03-21-2010 07:12 PM                        Look at the schematic to get the wire numbers. They are physically TINY and are taped back just behind the top of the terminal board. Louis  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 03-22-2010 12:39 PM                     Yea, the "Hi/Lo" taps are mounted behind the rectifier on a fibre panel with nine set of studs with the middle three studs as the common . You'll might see three brass straps that are held down with brass nuts. If the three straps are bolted down in the lower position, unbolt them and put them in the high position. -Monte  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-22-2010 01:50 PM                     Monte, the HI/LO taps govern the overall output of the rectifier, not the no-load voltage. If you change those and your AC input voltage is not correct you will fry the transformer. The no-load wires are only about 14ga. and are separate from the taps.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 03-22-2010 08:22 PM                     Okey..thx-for the update on this..monte  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-22-2010 08:33 PM                        The schematics make no sense, especially when chopped up like the version here on Film-Tech is. I need a visual representation. I looked on the non-operator side of the rectifier and it doesn't look like that's where I want to be. Just tell me what to do and where it is.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-22-2010 10:32 PM                     Joe, looking at page 6, lower left of the schematics (yes it's hard to read broken up as it is) you'll see "Manual Start" and "Auto Start" listed by two wires, wire numbers 78 and 84, which connect to (in various combinations) terminals 78, 81, 84 and 87. For auto strike normal connection should be Lead 78 to terminal 81 Lead 84 to terminal 87 And I think but am not positive that in cases like yours you can move lead 78 to terminal 78 to kick up the no load voltage...but check with Christie to confirm in case I'm wrong!! (Wouldn't want you to fry anything.) Again, been ages since I opened up an SLC console, but I THINK the connections are on the operator's side, lower door. These wires and terminals should be on the right hand upper corner of the transformer board (red fibreboard). Just dawned on me that Bevan Wright at MIT might be able to help you... give him a shout at 714) 751-7998 or if he still posts here maybe he'll chime in.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-23-2010 12:09 AM                        Thanks Tony. Bevan still hasn't forgiven me for the Bevan-Poo.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 03-23-2010 06:59 AM                        The wires you are looking for are very small. . . .#22 guage and white. The ends are insulated and taped back along the wire bundle at the top of the fibre board, maybe just over the top. Louis  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-23-2010 10:48 AM                        I won't be able to check this out until probably Friday, but the wires have actual tape on them? Invisible tape, masking tape, artists tape, Zebra tape, etc???  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 03-26-2010 08:37 AM                        Tony, would what you describe only affect manual start? The lead you suggested to be moved is for manual start, what about Lead 84?  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-26-2010 11:06 PM                     Joe, the way it is labeled on the schematic is confusing, but here's the scoop: For manual start (ie the no-load voltage boost is below the threshold for the auto ignition circuit) It would be wired as: Lead 78 to terminal 78 Lead 84 to terminal 84 Notice this uses less of the transformer windings as shown on the diagram, which gives a lower voltage out. Standard auto ignition uses the setup of: Lead 78 to terminal 81 Lead 84 to terminal 87 Which uses more of the windings giving a higher voltage out. Now moving Lead 78 to terminal 78, while leaving lead 84 on terminal 87, would make use of the full boost windings and give the highest possible no-load voltage out. It is the combination of how the leads are connected that makes the difference of "Manual" and "Auto" ignition, not any one lead is for Manual/Auto ignition specifically. I hope this makes sense... quote: Joe Redifer Thanks Tony. Bevan still hasn't forgiven me for the Bevan-Poo. So you're the one who coined the name Bevan-Poo?  |  IP: Logged

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