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Author
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Topic: Brings a projector down to 18FPS?
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Martin McCaffery
Film God
Posts: 2481
From: Montgomery, AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-30-2010 11:07 AM
As much as I hate to say it, if this is a one off thing a good transfer DVD may be your best bet.
The transfer should be at the correct speed, so you don't have to worry about it. It was probably made from the best available source. And as it is in B&W, will look decent on the screen. Your quality tradeoff is going to be the condition of the print vs the DVD. Obviously, you don't have to worry about sound.
On the other hand, if you're going for a semi-permanent silent film venue, good for you and go for it, keeping in mind what Jack said. I believe there are threads about the specifics for the mechanics, and if not, someone will be here soon.
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God
Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 05-30-2010 01:10 PM
True, before the standard 24FPS film speed was established, there was no industry standard in silent film speeds since a lot of those early cameras were hand cranked and not motor operated.
You could bolt up a motor underneath the 4 Star motor mount.
On the top motor, remove the front knob and mount a larger diameter pulley on the end of the motor.
Then, the motor underneath will have a small diameter pulley and that motor will run the upper pulley, via a "v" belt, attached to the main drive motor in a reduced RPM.
You would have to find the ratio for the correct pulley diameter (buy an adjustable pulley that you can change inside widths) since your reducing shaft speed to run 24FPS, or 1725rpm down to 18FPS.
(Plus, you know that you're gonna get some flicker on the screen since you're also reducing shutter speed from 48 flashes down to 36 flashes per second...)
Power to that lower motor will have to be separate to a simple plug in the wall, or add a switch inbetween the wall cord and motor.
..for I've got to do the same thing come fall - to slow down an XL with a 4star underneath of it do do some silent films.
ALSO, doing silent in a sound projector, you know that you're gonna have to cut new aperture plates to capture the entire frame since there is no soundtrack on a full-frame, silent image.
Plus, do an adjustment to the lens so it can be in optic center of the frame since it's off to one side also due to the soundtrack frame of sound film.
Good luck-Monte
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