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Author Topic: Problem with FP-350 failsafe.... Ben Calloway Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Norcross, GA, USA Registered: May 2010 posted 01-03-2011 06:42 PM                     I had an fp-350 apparantly die. But I've never really had a problem with them in that regard...So since I've decided to learn the in's and out's of my projectors I decided to remove the failsafe and look it over. I found no reason for it's demise so I cleaned it up and hooked it up to a different projector. Still no dice. However when I hooked up the different projector's own failsafe back up it now has no power...which made me very suspicious. So I found an adapter laying around that puts out 12v @ 200 Ma which I figured would be close enough. I hooked it up to the first failsafe and bam, I got power. So I'm stumped as to why the lead in the projector isn't putting out power...is there a bad fuse? And if so, where? The FP-350 wires to an SPA7 terminator board which, following the path, leads to the SPA7 mainboard. Any ideas? Oh and if I've done something stupid to put me in this situation or it's a simple rookie error feel free to laugh at and mock me...  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-03-2011 07:18 PM                     SPA-7's are a finicky automation that EPRAD made for STRONG which are a long time dinosaur since they were discontinued in the mid 90's. Bet a dime to buy a doughnut that one of the black diodes opened up next to one of the power relays, which are located in back in a row on the momboard, causing the one start relay not to latch close when you hit the "start" button and with your system not to have a closed circuit with the FP-350 connected. I'm sure that the FP-350 is okey, but just make sure that the lead-in wires to the terminal strip to the FP-350 are snug down tight for they love to work loose ... (and clean the underneath of the FP-350 from time to time, for dust loves to make the two sensors not function too well...) I've seen that a few times with these automations ... good luck - Monte  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 01-03-2011 08:14 PM                        quote: Monte L Fullmer Bet a dime to buy a doughnut What?  |  IP: Logged Ben Calloway Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Norcross, GA, USA Registered: May 2010 posted 01-03-2011 08:54 PM                     Thanks for the help Monte....but I'm not following you 100%....are you talking about a relay on the failsafe or on the spa7 mainboard? Here's some further symptoms. The sync button has lit up. Won't turn off at all...I've hooked up external power to the failsafe in #6 ( this was the 2nd projector...the one that's my fault) and it has power and registers properly (I can see the light turn off when my hand is over the sensors and I can hear it click.) but it's not sending that to the projector... So if that solidifies what's wrong...how do I fix it? If it is a relay do I replace the relay like in a car?  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-03-2011 10:27 PM                     If you got a sync light that won't go out, that is what's locking the system from starting since there is an open somewhere that needs to be closed in the start loop. Is your booth setup looped together for interlock operation? the relays are the big ones on the mainboard in the automation and by each one is a black diode with the silver band around it. If a diode opens up, that is your open that needs to be closed with replacement of that diode to get the thing into the closed loop condition for normal operation. But first, check your wiring to the failsafe to make sure that the correct wires from the automation are connected to each of the respective terminals on the FP-350 (you also could have a broken wire that heads to the failsafe that needs to be bug lit with a VOM meter for continuity..) To test diodes with a VOM: touch the leads across the ends of the diode and if the needle swings on switching the leads, the diode has shorted across. If the needle doesnt swing when switching leads on the diode, it has opened up. A normal diode will only swing the needle when the set of leads are conneceted in one direction only and not swing if hooked up reverse.  |  IP: Logged Ben Calloway Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Norcross, GA, USA Registered: May 2010 posted 01-05-2011 03:41 PM                     Hrm...well I don't think these units were ever ment to be interlocked...the projectors themselves seem like they are capable...but there's no system put in place and I don't think there was ever intended to be. I will double check the wiring....but I am fairly confident that it's ok. In #6 at least...that's the main one I'm concerned with since it was fine before I decided to test the first failsafe on it. I only have a dvom....no needle...actually...not sure if I've ever used one with a needle. Anyhoo, I set the meter to +/- and tested the diodes next to the relays...I had to take the relays out to see them. Going from left to right, where the diode is directly behind each relay, I got readings of .56, .56, .25, .56 So I tested #5, which is working fine, and I got the exact same readings. Now I'll admit I'm not awesome with a multimeter...so I am probably using it wrong here...which is funny...because if it is a diode that's bad I'll have absolutly no problem taking it out and soldering in a new one. At that I'm pretty good. In fact I wouldn't be above just replacing all 4 diodes just to be sure. Thanks again for the help so far Monte.  |  IP: Logged Ben Calloway Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Norcross, GA, USA Registered: May 2010 posted 01-08-2011 05:12 PM                     I checked the wiring and it's all sound... I then used a multimeter backwards and forwards on each diode and got different results on each one except for the 3rd which reads the same backwards and forwards... .25 but I compared it to a working projector and got the same results...should I just go ahead and replace all 4 diodes? Or could it be something else?  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 01-08-2011 11:55 PM                        Do you not have a diode check selection on your multimeter? It has a symbol that looks kind of like this: -->|- Not sure what you use, but mine will beep. No beep one way and a short beep the other way usually signifies a properly functioning diode. I use a Fluke 77.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-09-2011 04:07 AM                     OH, did forget something as well: Make sure that all of the multiwire connection plugs heading into the mainboard of that processor is good and tight-clicked in, for one could be just hanging up causing this one open. If you are using an X-90 console, the distribution board in back - also check to make sure that all of the multiconnection plugs are secure on that dist board also.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 01-09-2011 01:32 PM                     Ben, while your efforts are admirable, it sounds like this problem is beyond your skills, and you should call in a tech to fix it. While the tech is there, take the time to observe and ask questions and you will learn a lot. As for the diode tests you've run, something you need to know: to properly test a diode or any other device, it needs to be removed from the circuit (you can de-solder and lift one lead to do that) as there are frequently other parts connected in parallel which will create false readings (that third diode is a prime example.) You are on the right track with what you're looking for, but if you are not careful you can cause more damage and problems than you already have. quote: Ben Calloway so I cleaned it up and hooked it up to a different projector. Still no dice. However when I hooked up the different projector's own failsafe back up it now has no power...(and)....but I am fairly confident that it's ok. In #6 at least...that's the main one I'm concerned with since it was fine before I decided to test the first failsafe on it. Automation issues especially can be tricky, and it is hard for you to convey exactly every detail and even harder for anyone on a forum to give proper advice in this situation.  |  IP: Logged

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