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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Technicolor 3D issues
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Christopher Schaffner
Film Handler
Posts: 33
From: Elizabethtown, KY, USA
Registered: Feb 2011
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posted 05-06-2011 11:38 PM
Got a good one for you guys this time.. OK, so, we have 2 Xetron XHC35s both with identical Centry MSA projectors. both can run 3D, one of them (we'll call it #4) has always had issues with switching between 3D and 2D. the other one (#5) has no problems at all switching between the two. Today we were supposed to run the 3d Thor in #4, but we couldnt get the 3D looking right. (one side is fine, the other is not). At first we thought it was the film, so we put the 3D Hoodwinked that 5 was running into 4, stayed with the proj so not the film. We switched the lenses, problem stayed on 4. We tried re-aligning the bulb...no change. I am out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, I almost forgot to mention, These use Technicolor 3D lenses. and #4 was running Fast Five before it went back to 3D. One side looks normal, the other has dark bars on top and bottom and is slightly out of focus. which is noticeable with, and without 3D glasses on.
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Jim Cassedy
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1661
From: San Francisco, CA
Registered: Dec 2006
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posted 05-07-2011 03:43 PM
First of all, I think for future reference in finding this topic in the future, it should be renamed "TECHNICOLOR 3D Issues"
I've had a similar "bar" or "shadow" problem last year.
If you've got what looks like a dark bar or shadow at the top or bottom or the screen:
>See if it goes away or becomes more or less pronounced when you close one eye or the other. (With glasses on!) OR:
>Does it go away if you remove the auxiliary port masking, or if you pull the aperture plate out??
If so, I've found the best way to deal with this is to "start from scratch" - -
First: >REMOVE THE AUXILLARY PORT MASKING< (really!) 1) Run the Techniolor test loop. Make sure you're using the 3D aperture plate.
2) Adjust the framing carefully, I've found that even though the picture appears to be framed correctly, if you "rack the framing knob" up & down a bit, you will begin to see a bit of a shadow at either the top or the bottom of the screen as U turn the knob.
You can see it without the glasses, but the best way is to put the glasses on and alternately open & close each eye. It will either go away entirely or be less pronounced on one eye.
You should find a point at which there is NO shadow when looking with either eye.
This is the 'correct' framing position. I've marked my framing knob with a horizontal line for reference at this spot.
At this point, you may have to adjust your projector pedistal elevation or screen masking to re-center the image on screen.
Now, re-install your auxillary port masking. CAREFULLY- If it's not aligned right or perfectly flat against the glass it will create a shadow effect again.
That should take care of your problem, assuming there are no other issues with your Technicolor lens!
Good luck!
> Did everyone get the new Techniclor 3D logo? Mine was enclosed with the screen-ads. The 3D effect looks great if you've got everything aligned right!
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Christopher Schaffner
Film Handler
Posts: 33
From: Elizabethtown, KY, USA
Registered: Feb 2011
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posted 05-09-2011 03:12 AM
SOLVED :] Okay, here is what we did. I don't know how many of you have ever ran a Xetron XHC35, but this is a relatively narrow(front to back) console, so the bulb cant quite be perfectly aligned. Well, I forgot, as well as our other techs, that the bulb in this proj was recently replaced, and aligned for a 2D! show. well for 3D with this console, you apparently have to align the bulb a special way? so we tried aligning it, while it was running the T3D focus/frame alignment loop, this way we were able to get both pictures the same brightness. Now about the bars across the top and bottom on one side.. for some reason, the actual tilt of the proj was causing these lines after that was fixed we reinstalled all the masking and ran the show. everything looked perfect! :]
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