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Author Topic: Kinoton 35/16 Lamp heat issues
Phil Ranucci
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 236
From: Carpinteria,CA, United States
Registered: May 2006


 - posted 05-20-2011 12:13 AM      Profile for Phil Ranucci   Email Phil Ranucci   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I got a call from a local school that's having problems with too much heat on the film when they run 16mm on FP38E. Is there a manual for these machines that explains how they adjust the light outoput for 16 vs. 35mm? I'm assuming the lamphouses are Kinotons also, but won't know the model until Monday.
Thanks

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Manny Knowles
"What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???"

Posts: 4247
From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 05-20-2011 12:54 AM      Profile for Manny Knowles   Email Manny Knowles   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Are they using the heat shield? It looks like an aperture plate -- but it doesn't go in the usual slot for aperture plates -- instead, it should be inserted into the one behind that.

When running at lower frame rates (for silent) I find it necessary to defocus the lamp -- somewhere between the 35mm and 16mm setting, depending on frame rate. But the 35/16 Z axis adjustment "lever" had to be added by our installer. Your projector may/may not have that feature installed but if so, this might work in the meantime. Ideally, you'd get it aligned so it works as intended. (This assumes a Kinoton lamp house.)

Our lenses at USC didn't have adjustable f/stops, so it was necessary to adjust the lamp current to hit the target luminance for each format. Look for a slotted adjustment dial just below the ammeter. (This also assumes a Kinoton lamp house.)

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-20-2011 02:00 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gee, digital projectors do this automaticallnce once set up! I'm surprised that expensive Kinoton doesn't have at least a setting each for 16mm and 35mmt when you move some sort of lever to switch formats. Expensive boat anchor you have there... [Wink]

Mark

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Adam Martin
I'm not even gonna point out the irony.

Posts: 3686
From: Dallas, TX
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 05-20-2011 11:00 AM      Profile for Adam Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Adam Martin       Edit/Delete Post 
I have an operating manual and a parts manual for the FP30-38E and separate manuals for the FP30ECII/38EC(-S)II.

Email me if you'd like any of them emailed or if you'd prefer a download link. The 30/38E manuals total about 13MB and the ECII manuals total about 20MB.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 05-20-2011 12:16 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Manny, you should not need to defocus the 16mm when going to the slower frame rates. The FP38E does shift to 3-wing mode so if you are running say 18fps, the flash rate is 54 or slightly more than the 48 you would get running at 24fps.

As for heat...I've run up to 5KW on 16mm without heat issues. One should have the heat filter in the lamphouse (200mm square) as well as the heat shield Manny describes. Also, the machines should be water-cooled if 3KW or higher lamps.

Mark, I believe there is an option for auto focus on the lamps but I don't know of anyone that gets it in a 35/16. The focus lever works quite well for going between the formats and the technician can set it up to be right for both.

-Steve

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