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Author
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Topic: Intermittent on Simplex XL
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Dave Macaulay
Film God
Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-08-2012 10:11 AM
Make sure the "SprayMatic" oiling system is working right... This may sound mad, but it's how it should work: The oil pump squirts oil out the little tube at the top, oil dribbles/squirts out down onto the fire shutter governor (or a paddle thing if yours doesn't have an automatic fire shutter). The governor or paddle then flings oil drops all around, these drops will hopefully hit everything that needs oil. Quite a few drops should be flung into the square funnel thing above the shutter compensator. The bottom of the funnel goes into another small tube that dribbles oil into the intermittent oil pump. Things to look for: - Do you have good oil flow from the pump outlet tube at the top? Usually this means a lot of spray onto the window when running. Poor flow can be from a loose connection at the pump (sucking air rather than oil), a blocked pickup screen (clean it so it's nice clear mesh), or a sticky pump (just disassemble it, clean, and reassemble... usually). - Is the top tube dribbling onto the governor/paddle at a place where plenty of drops land in the funnel? Just bend the tube end so it does, if not. - Is there plenty of oil (a constant stream or very close to a constant stream) coming from the tube from the bottom of the funnel? This is visible if you rack the framing to one end so the flywheel shifts out of the way. Sometimes gunk blocks the tube. - Is the funnel outlet tube pouring into the intermittent oil pump? This means the tube should point downish just behind the flywheel, almost touching the back of the flywheel. It's not unusual to bend it out of the way to change the intermittent and not put it back in place. The intermittent oil pump is the two meshed gears visible from the top looking down directly behind the flywheel. As well as being part of the intermittent drive, these are a gear pump. It seals against the flywheel though, so check the flywheel is set as close as possible without dragging on the intermittent body.
Each different intermittent has to be adjusted for correct gear mesh with the vertical shaft on its projector. This is done by moving the little rotation stop on the intermittent, should have small hex bolts holding it down. Correct mesh allows a very slight backlash between the intermittent drive gear and the vertical shaft gear. It should not be tight (no backlash, gears will wear and there's a whining noise and the projector doesn't turn easily) or too loose (noisy operation and also gear wear, may work the vertical shaft gear screw loose as well).
Note that the door seal is very sensitive to oil contamination, and it will never seal no matter how tight you make the thumbscrews if there's oil on the sealing face or gasket face. Clean both with paper towels until no oil is seen on a towel, then use alcohol or windex to get both squeaky clean. You won't have leaking then, and you won't have to crank the nuts down with pliers.
Film wear at the gate is likely from the intermittent sprocket being off centre. There's a fair bit of movement possible when the clamping screw is loosened. I centre the teeth as well as possible in the perfs of some new film (there was a steel film gauge available once for this) then tighten the clamp screw.
There are a lot of different adjustments in the XL gear train to get ideal meshing on all the gears, but I've never seen any documentation about how to do it. The difference in sound and smoothness when it's all just right is amazing. Probably now, in the waning days of 35mm, this arcane knowledge will be lost to mankind.
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