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Author
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Topic: Orcon/SuperLume-x
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Dave Macaulay
Film God
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Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 03-30-2013 08:56 AM
It's fine but limited to 1.6kW lamp. The wiring is simple. AC power goes to the rectifier. Also the DC lamp connection; the rectifier manual is in the warehouse section here. The lamphouse is designed for Strong rectifiers but is easy to connect. 120VAC at about 5A max is required, possibly an issue in the UK. 50Hz might be a problem for the lamphouse fan though... You connect the 120V to terminals 2 and 4 in the lamphouse. Connect rectifier terminals 5 and 6 to lamphouse terminals 4 and 5,and connect a good ground wire between the lamphouse ground and rectifier terminal 1. The lamphouse sends 120V out on 5 and 6 when the safety interlocks (door and blower airflow) are OK and the lamp switch is on, the rectifier contactor is on terminals 4 and 5: hopefully it hasn't been swapped to a 240V coil type. 1600W lamps need a few adapter parts that are still available from Strong. There's a brass cathode adapter the lamp screws into, an anode end extender, a clamp to hold that on, and an anode cable plus clamp assembly. If you don't have them probably someone here has extras, and the part numbers are in the lamphouse manual in a table carefully crafted to be almost unreadable. Also a possible issue is the rectifier boost voltage. There are several Strong rectifier types with different voltages, the electronic ones have very high boost (rectifier on but lamp off) voltage. The lamphouse senses this voltage to do autostrike: if you have a lamphouse set up for an electronic rectifier it will probably not autostrike with the ORC rectifier. If that's a problem for you, you can change a zener diode on the autostrike card. Unfortunately, removing the autostrike card from a used Super Lume-X usually destroys the mounting posts since Strong used nylon posts that turn to brittle crap in UV light. And Strong used an oddball size post that's quite hard to find... except from Strong of course.
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Peter Hall
Master Film Handler
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Posts: 314
From: London, UK
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 04-04-2013 10:12 AM
Hi Tom
The wiring is spot on, but you may find that the SuperLumex doesnt get enough open cct voltage to auto strike (there is a manual strike button under a cap on the top of the lamphouse if this is the case). If so (very likely) there is a zenrer diode in the strike cct that can be changed. Email me if you need the cct dug out - no problem to run manually however if you like.
Louis - not totally with you on the Super Lumex long term. We have found the mirrors and wiring to overheat, causing brittle wiring and yellow mirrors (even with good extract). But yes, they are nice to install, perhaps less so the earlier ones with the push-pull douser. It is hard to believe that less than 10 years after we were installing these new, we have perhaps half a dozen of good, used ones in stock, a pile of Kinotons and some good switch mode rectifiers but nobody has a use for them - they are just too good to throw away.
Strange how things change - I had to show 2 Digital guys how to phase a FP30 shutter today - they thought that the rotating disk thingy (their words !) was quaint, but figured that the "double flash" of the 35mm frame was "just like video". I think that film may have been there first...
Never had a "projector unable to communicate with server (or should it be platter (?)" error, nor a link decryptor issue, ICP overload or KDM issue on a FP30, nor a Super Lumex...
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