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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Cinemeccanica Victoria 5 film run speed
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Tony Smith
Film Handler
Posts: 42
From: worcester,worcestershire, england ,UK
Registered: Sep 2012
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posted 02-27-2015 10:50 AM
Hi Folks Very much a newbie to this world, very interesting it is too. After a little advice, and help Please. I have after my first thread manaaged to run a Cinemeccanica Victoria 5, at slower run speed, by changing the motor high speed frequency setting in it's Mitsubushi single to three phase invertor. My question is, what is the best method of checking its new run speed, we are going to try and run 20 frames per second achive film (protection copy ) I have built from a kit, a LED twin bright leds, stroboscope, which its max flashing speed is 20 hz. I have tried looking at the shutter running and strobing (at the rear end where the spindel comes out) Is there a better way to do this and get a stationary image when the strobe is in sync?
Tony Smith
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Tony Smith
Film Handler
Posts: 42
From: worcester,worcestershire, england ,UK
Registered: Sep 2012
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posted 02-28-2015 05:10 PM
Hi Folks Thanks again for your answers, just one quick question, if I could. The Cinemeccanica Victoria 5 has a two blade shutter, so as the film rate in 50 hz is 24 frames per second,so I would expect the shutter rate to be the same, so it lets the light through when the film is stationary in the gate, so with a twin blade shutter is the actual run speed 12 frames per second,or is the speed 24fps and the film same frame shown light twice. I know this is a basic question to you guys but as a newbie, still trying to work thse things out Tony Smith
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Tony Smith
Film Handler
Posts: 42
From: worcester,worcestershire, england ,UK
Registered: Sep 2012
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posted 03-01-2015 07:42 AM
Ji Folks Thanks again for your replies, have learn't a lot from your forum and the memebers on it.
I think what I will try first is using a stroboscope, put a mark on the spindle with the dual blade shutter on, check it speed of rotation, looking for 48 rps in 24 frames, and note the change when running 20 frames, looking for 40 rps,or as near as possible.
All this due to the cinema being booked for a film showing conference, where a fair amount of archive film shot around 20frames is to be run, a request was put in for us to blow the dust off the 35 mm Cinemeccanica Victoria 5, and show the film as it was intended. thats not off a DVD. Tony Smith
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Leo Enticknap
Film God
Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 03-01-2015 03:36 PM
By all means go for complete accuracy if it's important (or if people are breathing down your neck), but as an aside, the people who shot the movies you're going to show probably didn't.
If you're being told 20fps I'm guessing that you're showing British and/or French movies from the mid to late 1920s. Most of the Hollywood studios were shooting at 24 (and specifying projection at 24) from the early '20s onwards. Germany and the Soviets mostly stuck at 16-18 right up until the conversion to sound. 20 was typically used by British and French studios as a compromise between not driving up film stock costs too much, and using a fast enough frame rate that the emerging picture palaces (longer throws to bigger screens, hence the need for more light) could project a reasonably bright, low-flicker picture.
The point is that until the conversion to sound, most of these studios used hand-cranked cameras. If the operator was aiming for 20, the actual speed of each shot could be anywhere between 18-22, and could even vary within a shot. When Kevin Brownlow was doing his "Thames Silents" video versions in the 1980s and '90s, he would meticulously adjust the transfer speed of each shot to try to achieve a consistency of movement across the movie as a whole. They look great - "better" than original audiences would have seen, in fact. So in one respect, you really don't need to worry about getting the frame rate bang on, because that was neither achievable nor expected during the silent period. The need to sync the frame rate accurately and reliably between the camera and the projector only materialised with sound. Very few people can see a slight (as in, 2-3 frames per second) speed difference in the image, but they'll very easily hear it on the audio: the same 2-3fps difference is enough to make a bass baritone sound like Mickey Mouse.
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