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Author
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Topic: 16 MM TO DCP
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-03-2017 02:12 PM
The only other way, beside telecine, that I know of is to use a video camera.
Use a good quality matte screen in a totally dark room and set the projector centered vertically on the screen but offset to one side by just enough to make room for a video camera on a tripod. Set the camera and tripod at the same height as the projector but offset, equidistant, from the center of the screen by the same distance you offset the projector. That way, any possible keystoning will cancel out.
Zoom the video camera in as tight as you can, vertically, but ignoring any negative space on the sides. Once you record the film to video, use an editor such as Final Cut or Premiere to crop the picture to the correct size/aspect ratio.
I had to do this a few times, over the years. It's not perfect, by any means but you can get acceptable results if you pay attention to details.
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-03-2017 05:28 PM
quote: Marcel Birgelen A proper scan should scan each frame individually.
Yup!
If you are careful to match the frame rate of the video camera you can get better results...not perfect...but pretty good.
(This assumes that your camera has adjustable frame rates. Most do, AFAIK, but some have several layers of menus to go through which make it unweildy.)
I often made two or three recordings of the film to be duplicated, right in a row. Sometimes, the camera will seem to synchronize well with the projector but, after several minutes, will seem to drift.
Making multiple passes gives you the chance to take the best recording or, worst-case scenario, you can edit multiple takes together to make one good copy.
Yes... Not the best way to do it but, as Marcel says, video cameras, today, are getting good enough to make it a viable option.
After recording, if you need a DCP, use DCP-O-Matic. Use Quicktime or some other transcoder to make it into an MP4 or what-have-you. Or, you can just keep it in original camera format for archival purposes.
Once you have the 16mm film on video, you can package, store or distribute it any format you need/want.
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Leo Enticknap
Film God
Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 11-03-2017 05:49 PM
The other thing to keep in mind is that if these are 1940s diacetate prints, they may well be shrunk and brittle to the point at which putting them through an intermittent motion projector could risk significant damage. That would be an argument for finding someone with a continuous motion scanner such as an MWA Flashscan or a Lasergraphics.
As others have pointed out, considering this project as two separate ones might be the way to go. Digitizing the films is going to be the difficult and/or expensive one: once you have the digital files, then as Randy points out, with a decent home computer, you can edit and transcode them into anything you like.
If you are going to hire someone to do the scanning, I'd suggest having them give you individual frame DPX files and a separate uncompressed audio file. That way, you'll have none of the potential interlacing and jerky movement issues that are a risk with a 23.976fps combined file. It will take up a lot of drive space (roughly a terabyte per 20 minutes in 2K), but hard drives are pretty cheap now, and it's well worth it for the quality and versatility of the output, IMHO. Most of the archives I make DCPs for deliver their material to me this way.
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