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Topic: Kinoton FP30D warble/flutter
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!
Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 05-17-2018 06:23 AM
The O-rings (rubber bands, drive tires, pick your name...etc.) should NOT have any oil on them and yes, the GREEN ones were the last variation. There were a generation of the black ones that would swell up and fall apart. The green ones will not do that.
As for lubricating with Cardan oil, despite Kinoton recommendations, I'd avoid it. It has never improved any flutter problems for me, only caused them. Additionally, Cardan oil is unstable. It gets thicker with age while out of its canister and as the machine sits, it will pool at the bottom of a bearing and then set up an uneven lubrication.
I've had my best results using a synthetic oil like LaVezzi's intermittent oil (was always handy around our shop and I carried a squeeze bottle of it with me). Used it on the both the drum bearings and the pinch roller. A synthetic oil is going to cling to ball bearings better.
Things to check. Run a pice of film through the projector at speed. When the tail goes through pull the pinch roller off the drum and see how long it takes for the drum to come to a complete stop. You'd like it to be 90-seconds or longer. Anything less and you have too much binding in the drum bearings. The drum bearings are type 6001, which are pretty common. Kinoton uses open bearings so there is amble opportunity for the lubricant to leak out and for dirt to migrate in. Their last generation of bearings used ceramic balls and these definitely did better. I have no idea if Kinoton Digital Solutions can still supply them or not. If not, or you want to source locally, we've used ABEC-5 grade bearings (SKF brand, as I recall), both open and single shield with success. Note, you may find that the bearing receivers (machined into the sound head) are too tight and you may need to sand them open a little (appropriate sized flap-wheel). They should be snug but not so tight that they cause binding on the bearing. if the bearing spun freely when out of the projector, it should spin freely in the projector. At the same time, you don't want to introduce any play into the drum.
If you change lubricant on the bearings, make sure you flush out the old lube and whatever junk may have gotten into them. The bearings should spin totally free before adding any lubricant back.
On an FP30D, look at the double-roller below the intermittent, you can adjust their angle such to minimize the vibrations of the film heading to the sound head. Doing so will help things some too.
With the film running, look at the film after the drum, it should almost look like it is floating on the rollers after the drum and definitely not tugging at all.
If it has Dolby Digital, fire up DRAS and look at how the block is moving. It shouldn't be very violent (lower jitter numbers are better). This can give you a clue as to how the film is moving at the scanning area. If set up right an RSSD should yield numbers on par with a penthouse reader.
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