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Author Topic: Lamp house wiring for super lumex 1600 lamphouse Bill Hall Film Handler Posts: 30 From: Owen Sound Ontario Canada Registered: Jul 2018 posted 07-11-2018 09:45 PM                     HI I have a super lumex lamp house and having difficulty in locating where the dc wires go and any ac wiring needed to run the fan. I have a Strong rectifier so I have hopes of having my projector room operational this summer if possible I would appreciate any help or advice to wire these two units up. Thank You Bill Hall  |  IP: Logged Stephan Shelley Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 854 From: castro valley, CA, usa Registered: Nov 2014 posted 07-11-2018 10:42 PM                     Have you checked out the manuals in the warhouse section? There are several for that model lamp. http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/STRSLX.pdf There are diagrams in them.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 07-19-2018 02:07 PM                     Is your rectifier the older two diode reactance type, the black suitcase switcher, or the smaller grey 1 to 3k switcher? The switcher types had the four lug 2,4,5,6 terminals for 120vAC for AC feed and return. If running single phase in the switcher, Lugs 1 and 3 on the terminal board for single phase 220 are used from the wall.  |  IP: Logged Bill Hall Film Handler Posts: 30 From: Owen Sound Ontario Canada Registered: Jul 2018 posted 07-27-2018 07:23 PM                     Hi my rectifier is like a suitcase so to speak and there appears to be two large capacitors in there blue ones . The case is black in colour and runs on 220 single phase power. so far from the manual it appears to run wires numbered 2 4 5 6 ti the lamp house and that somehow 110 volt will appear to run the little fan in the lamp house. I hope this is right and in the rectifier there is a red terminal for positive and black for negative to the small black box in the lamp house. I hope to hook this up and have light soon and then sound from a cp 45 or a 50 or 55 . I have the 50 hooked up but no sound so not sure what to do to fix that Thank you for any help that is out there Bill Hall  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 07-27-2018 07:37 PM                     http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/SW120V.pdf The manual to your suitcase. Good luck - Monte  |  IP: Logged Stephan Shelley Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 854 From: castro valley, CA, usa Registered: Nov 2014 posted 07-27-2018 07:56 PM                     On the sound issue what type of projector/soundhead are you using? I am guessing we are talking optical analog sound as you are using a CP50. I have to ask, you have a working exciter lamp or red LED yes?  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 07-28-2018 09:08 AM                     The rectifier will have a 220V power input, that's pretty obviously where you connect the AC power: two hots and a ground. The terminal block has numbers 2,4,5,6, and 3. 3 isn't used for a simple hookup, that's for automation. You just connect 2, 4, 5, & 6 to the same number terminals in the lamphouse, 16ga wire is good. There is a circuit breaker on the rectifier for the lamphouse power, 5A I think. It pops up on overload. The rectifier supplies 120VAC on 2 and 4, from an isolation transformer you can see in the rectifier if you know what it looks like. That runs the lamphouse fan and ignitor (if it's the AC type, there are also DC ignitors that work off the lamp voltage). 5 and 6 are the rectifier on/off control, 120V on these will energize the power contactor and turn on the lamp power section of the rectifier. DC power lugs should be pretty obvious in the rectifier. In the lamphouse, "+" goes to one end of the shunt (metal thing with brass end blocks connected with metal plates) and "-" goes to the AC ignitor. Possibly this is different with a DC ignitor? The AC one is a black box with a pushbutton. The DC one has no button. Once connected, lamped, and powered: with lamphouse power switch OFF everything should be quiet, the rectifier may hum quietly. Turn the MAN/AUTO switch to AUTO. Turn the lamphouse ON. The fan should start but the rectifier should be quiet. Turn to MAN and the rectifier should make a click and its fan should start. If the rectifier is OK, the lamphouse airflow switch has closed, and the autostrike card in the lamphouse is the correct one for your rectifier... you should hear a zapping (AC ignitor) or clicking (DC ignitor) sound and the lamp should strike. If so, immediately check the lamp current on the meter and confirm it is correct for your lamp... overcurrent will damage the lamp fairly quickly. Note on switchers: there are two special fuses. These are expensive and can be hard to find. If you want to check them, power the unit off and wait a long time: at least half an hour in my opinion. Taking them out for testing and reinstalling them will instantly blow at least one if you don't wait. With the AC ignitor you can press the button and force it to try stiking the lamp, don't hold the button down a long tine... 1/2 second should do it if the lamp is going to start. If it flashes and goes out immediately probably the current is set too low. From your description you probably have a switching rectifier... if not it will be very heavy and difficult to move as well as having no suitcase type lifting handle. Current control varies with the switchers, but they all want an external current control potentiometer. There may be one in the lamphouse but as far as I know this is just for the "TMI" (prone to meltdown) very early Strong switchers and isn't correct for the later types. There should be a connector for the potentiometer - wiring and value are in the manual. There is an internal pot as well for setting maximum current, so a hamhanded projectionist couldn't crank a 1kW lamp up to 4kW. Without the external control the switcher will run at minimum current, possibly too low to start a lamp. Note that there is a variety of adapters for lamps, you must have the right one to get the arc near the mirror focus. Sound... You need a light source and a working reader. Simplest is a tungsten exciter lamp and "solar cell" pickup - requires a DC exciter lamp supply. A stereo cell has 3 connections for ground (to the centre of the chip) and L/R (on the outer edges). Wire it up with shielded cable to the processor: slide a card through the gap between drum and sound lens ad you should hear a pop. That proves it works, so adjustment will get you the best sound possible. Note that exciter lamps will not give anywhere near decent sound with newer prints that have cyan sound tracks, old film with black sound tracks will be good. A red LED or laser reader is required for cyan track prints. If you have a red LED or laser reader you need to check its manual for correct power and wiring requirements. If you have a Jax-Lite red LED source replacing the exciter lamp and a normal reader (sound lens and solar cell) ... good luck. These were marginal at best. A special pre-amp is needed on the cell signal and if you don't have that you're screwed.  |  IP: Logged Bill Hall Film Handler Posts: 30 From: Owen Sound Ontario Canada Registered: Jul 2018 posted 07-28-2018 08:12 PM                     Hi Thank you for the reply. I have hopes of this week when I return home from Vacation time to hook up the lamp house and rectifier and hopefully have light. Your description of what to listen for and for hook up for 220 AC voltage is very helpful. Will let you folks know when I have light. For the sound I am hooked up to a cp 50 but no sound . I have hooked up the two wires from the reader on each channel but I did not hook up the shielded part as I am not sure how important that is to send the signal to the processor . I have it hooked up to a Scott integrated amplifier so I am at a loss as to fix the sound problem .The sound system is a I believe optical as in a red led light and reader made by Com ponet engineering and the small amp is a LS 40 and the led light comes on fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated and I hope to be back working on the proector on Tuesday of this next week . Many Thanks for any help to have sound Bill  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 07-29-2018 11:42 AM                     Do you have a scope a RTA and test film red readers require very accurate alignment to work properly and if mis-aligned often have next to no output The shield must be connected at the processor end  |  IP: Logged Bill Hall Film Handler Posts: 30 From: Owen Sound Ontario Canada Registered: Jul 2018 posted 07-29-2018 07:24 PM                     HI ok I do not have an oscilloscope to align the reader and I do not have the shielded part of the cable connected so that may be the problem . I hope to work on the system on Tuesday of this week. I may have to use new wire that is shielded at both ends to try for sound. For now I used some Bell wire with no shield and maybe that is the problem . the unit was working when removed from service.I suppose that the shielded part is important to complete the circuit for the sound to work. the red led comes on fine and the reader looks in nice shape. There is a LS 40 unit bolted to the projector and it appears to on fine so I hope that it is just a wiring problem to sort out. Thank You all for your help  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 07-30-2018 10:06 AM                     The LS40 is the reader and LED power supply, it has a current adjustment to allow for more power as the LEDs age and dim. It isn't an amplifier, the cables to the cinema processor connect directly to the reader unit. The connections are screened on the case, maybe even on the Phoenix connectors. Shielded cable is absolutely required for the signal connections. Best is shielded twisted pair cable so the + and - wires for L and R are in two individually shielded cables. Quad shielded cable is acceptable but not ideal. Shield must be connected at the processor end: try it with the reader end connected as well and if there's a hum problem try disconnecting that end.  |  IP: Logged

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