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Author Topic: Lubrication of old Simplex Craig Hardy Film Handler Posts: 28 From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA Registered: Oct 2018 posted 10-27-2018 10:11 PM                     I have a pair of old regular Simplex's that run nice but haven't been checked or lubed for over 20years. I've read the discussions about oil. Haven't obtained a quart of Simplex oil or Capella yet, but have a bottle of "refrigeration oil" which I presume is mineral oil. I happen to have several spare intermittents, including one identical to ones in these machines, so I've studied the insides and noted the two tiny "oil sight" windows. This is the model with the oil cup instead of pair of oil tubes on back. I don't see any provision for draining unit while in the machine. SO, my MAIN questions at the moment are: 1.How much oil do I add? 2.How do I use the "oil sight" windows? Since this is my first post on your wonderful site, let me bore you for a few moments on who I am. I'm a retired electro/mechanical engieer, will be 78 in January. My "home theatre" has a soundproofed booth, 33ft throw to 10ft screen. I have about 75 old features on 16mm that I screen with a pair of projectors. Deciding I was never going to do outside shows anymore, I just sold a pair of Super Simplex's with WE soundheads and Peerless Magnarc lamps scrounged from an old theatre about 25yrs ago. I kept my half dozen 'scope 4 star 35mm features and the scope lenses so I could still screen them with this other pair of regular Simplex's that were given to me. I got some large format experience helping a friend operate the IOKA theatre in Exeter, NH for 8-10yrs starting in mid 90's. We were running a pair of Brenkert BX-80's with Ashcroft lamps. The IOKA opened in the fall of 1915 with "Birth of a Nation" and remained in commercial operation until closed just a few years ago. The brenkerts had 6,000ft magazines and we used a tooth belt to lock motors in sync and to run 3D. Once a year, folks came from 5hrs away to watch "House of Wax", since I think we were the only venue east of the Mississippi still set up for two strip 3D. BACK TO NOW: I don't have room in my booth for both Simplex's and will just be running a reel at a time. REASON I've dusted off this old gem is a fellow who picked up about 500 reels of 35mm on ebay, lugged them home from Chicago, has no equipment and wants to view some of his cache. SO...before racking up some hours I want to make sure lube is OK! OH YEAH, as Columbo says, "one more thing": for compact indoor lamp, I have ELH quartz lamp mounted on shutter cage and a 10 qt. stainless soup bowl from Walmart on back of cage, with a 4" muffin fan for cooling. I've had a frustrating time these last couple days waited for administrator approval because NONE of the downloadable documentation matches these machines. The have no ID plates on them. The spend their final commercial years at the Hampton Casino over on the seacoast. The Ballantyne sound heads have consecutive serial numbers: 3634 and 3635. One of you gentlement stated that Simplex's are about indestructible, and here's testimony to that: When electricians removed them at Hampton Casino THEY TOSSED THEM OUT OF BOOTH--ABOUT A 14FT DROP ONTO A WOODEN FLOOR AND THEY SURVIVED! One had a little slop in the shutter, but still ran OK--one of the support arm castings broke but was riding in place. I have several "parts" heads from that theatre where I got the Supers, so replaced the shutter shaft bracket and all was well. OK, enough yak for now. Will await answers from you fine experienced gentlement!  |  IP: Logged Ed Inman Expert Film Handler Posts: 103 From: Jackson, Mississippi USA Registered: Jul 2004 posted 10-28-2018 09:18 AM                        I've got a pair of Supers. 20 lb. non detergent machine oil is generally sufficient. I try to keep the oil levels in the intermittent windows about half full when the framing knob is in the center position. Others may have a more scientific answer for you. It's generally pretty hard to over-oil an old Simplex. The old joke is that you know they need oil as soon as they stop leaking so best to keep a pan under them. My projectors also have Ballantyne Model 6 soundheads. Working ones are extremely rare in the U.S. these days and no parts are available but fortunately both of mine are still running well. I think you are the only other person I've ever known to still be running those. Good luck!  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-28-2018 02:17 PM                     Well, of course you use Simplex Oil. You can get it from either Ballantyne-Strong or Edw. H. Wolk in Chicago. LOL... Ha! Good luck with those ! Mark  |  IP: Logged Sam D. Chavez Film God Posts: 2153 From: Martinez, CA USA Registered: Aug 2003 posted 10-28-2018 06:14 PM                       Mark, Don't be a jerk. This guy is new and does not know you.  |  IP: Logged Mike Heenan Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1896 From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 10-28-2018 06:20 PM                     Sam it should stay that way for his own sake. - Lol  |  IP: Logged Jim Cassedy Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1661 From: San Francisco, CA Registered: Dec 2006 posted 10-28-2018 06:35 PM                     quote: Craig Hardy I have ELH quartz lamp mounted on shutter cage and a 10 qt. stainless soup bowl from Walmart on back of cage, with a 4" muffin fan for cooling. Very creative- - I'd love to see a picture. quote: NONE of the downloadable documentation matches these machines. The have no ID plates on them A photo or two might also help someone here to identify exactly what you've got. - - - i'm just sayin....  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 10-28-2018 08:00 PM                       quote: Craig Hardy I don't see any provision for draining unit while in the machine. SO, my MAIN questions at the moment are: 1.How much oil do I add? 2.How do I use the "oil sight" windows? Drain the intermittent and start with fresh oil. Remove the screw and washer(s) as shown in the attached drawing (and don't lose the washer(s) that may stay in the hole when you remove the screw). Rotate the framing knob until the drain hole is at bottom, so all the oil will come out. When it's empty, close the oil drain and rotate the framer to the middle of its travel. Use a flashlight to view the oil sight glass while slowly adding oil (it takes a few seconds to reach the case). You want the oil level to be at least halfway up on the sight glass when the intermittent/framer is at mid position (that is, when the intermittent movement is LEVEL). As long as you can see the oil midway on the glass when it's in this position, you're okay. If not, slowly add oil until you make it so. Use 20 wt oil, as Ed suggested. Also, make sure you add 2-3 drops of oil to each oil tube on the mechanism, wait a few minutes, and rotate the mechanism by hand to let it distribute. Then add a couple more drops to each tube. You may want to repeat this several times, since they've been sitting a long time. The shafts and sleeve bearings are most certainly needing some fresh oil at this late date. Using the projector as infrequently as you do, I'd place a drop of oil in each tube prior to each screening session. In a fully operational theatre, they'd get oiled weekly. Although, I knew a projectionist who oiled his daily (1 drop in each tube). The oil drain bottle under the sound head would fill fast, but those machines ran uber-quiet. CAVEATS: - This presumes you indeed have a Simplex Standard (regular) or a Super, and not an E7. - If I have overlooked anything or misspoken, I'm sure someone will correct me.  |  IP: Logged Craig Hardy Film Handler Posts: 28 From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA Registered: Oct 2018 posted 10-28-2018 09:16 PM                     Thanks everyone for all the help! Sure, I'll post a few pics, compressed for fast sending after I figure out how to do it!  |  IP: Logged Buck Wilson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 894 From: St. Joseph MO, USA Registered: Sep 2010 posted 10-29-2018 08:51 PM                     Relevant reply found here http://www.film-tech.com/ubb/f1/t012362.html  |  IP: Logged Lindsay Morris Expert Film Handler Posts: 233 From: Darlington, WA, Australia Registered: Sep 2002 posted 10-29-2018 10:31 PM                     Simplex Standards...Almost unstoppable with many used in drive ins all around Western Australia. Many were modified to take a water cooled jacket for the gate as anything over about 50A on the arc lamp would make the gates stinking hot and cause new-ish film to grab in the gate area. (Film Guard would stop that totally) Swines of things to thread in a hurry but uber reliable. A pair of those were still in use at Koorda Drive In WA up until 35mm film releases ended here in Australia in 2014/5. They would sit idle for 4 weeks and then get a bit of a quick clean and lube and away they would go just purring along and do a double feature session & then sit idle again for another 4 weeks. They were paired with very early Westrex "pull thru" sound heads 206B I think from memory which was quite good enough for a DI. Still have one sitting in my back shed and a few bits and pieces.  |  IP: Logged Craig Hardy Film Handler Posts: 28 From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA Registered: Oct 2018 posted 10-29-2018 11:47 PM                     Wesley! You're pretty far from New Hampshire--the internet really ties us together sometimes! Yeah many seem to attest to reliability of these old Simplex's. My friend at IOKA where we ran the dual shutter Brenkerts has no use for Simplex. Sure the Brenkerts are special, but anything that will serve as well as you describe certainly deserves praise. I've never run water cooled gates but heard about 'em. Eyeballed a couple of those big drive in lamps in storage in basement of IOKA. 13mm carbons at 135 amps is some serious fire and heat! We were only running 8's and 7's at 70 amps in the Ashcrofts on the Brenkerts. 35ft screen, 88ft throw. 600 seats. Removed the soup bowls and snapped couple pics to show those curious about my ELH lamp cob job: PICS OF MY ONE OF MY STANDARDS FOR JIM:  |  IP: Logged Lindsay Morris Expert Film Handler Posts: 233 From: Darlington, WA, Australia Registered: Sep 2002 posted 10-30-2018 02:57 AM                     Nicely kept bit of old gear. By far a lot cleaner than many of the Simplex I encountered in drive in use. Interesting that the Shutter Timing knob pops out the operating side just below the Framer. All units I have ever encountered had the shutter timing knob on the front plate with a locking screw just inside the front plate. Possibly to stop accidental knob movement in error for the Focus knob. Most of the Simplexes used here in drive ins had a modified front plate which was quite hefty being made from cast aluminium and fitted with a swing over Anamorphic lens holder assembly. The original Simplex front plate as on yours was a simple diecast plate so not able to carry the weight of a Anamorphic lens. Locally the plates were made by Hartland Cinemax who also made a modified shutter housing and all sold through RCA in Australia.  |  IP: Logged Craig Hardy Film Handler Posts: 28 From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA Registered: Oct 2018 posted 10-30-2018 07:35 PM                     Some of you may be laughing when I stated I'd pull front of intermittent out to replace oil sight while leaving main body in machine. UH huh, just eyeballed and can see frame blocks that. SO, for now I'm going to "cheat" and stick a new sight window on outside, de-greasing with acetone first, and then using JB Quik weld. If it doesn't last I'll have to pull unit out back and do things the right way...  |  IP: Logged Phillip Grace Expert Film Handler Posts: 164 From: ACMI. Melbourne. Australia. Registered: Mar 2004 posted 10-31-2018 12:49 AM                     Hi Craig. Most Regular Simplex machines will have been modified more or less extensively in the course of their long lives. The nameplates usually go when the front cover is replaced, due to metal fatigue or lens mount upgrade etc. The original serial number, up to six digits, can be found stamped into the rear vertical edge of the main projector frame. It can be difficult to see on rear shutter machines, and is probably covered by dirt and grease. There are some people on this forum who can work out the date of manufacture from the serial number. Although IPC offered a rear-shutter model direct from the factory, the majority of these machines would have begun their lives with front shutters. Lots of manufacturers offered after-market modifications to all aspects of the projector - including rear shutters, dual shutters, gates, gears, lens mounts, apertures, and external covers. Differences in detail might explain why yours don't match the literature. The basic mechanism should still resemble the original manuals. A very experienced projectionist told me many years ago that if you were doing two shows a day (Matinee and Evening) the Regular Simplex must be oiled before each show, but if there was a third session you could get away with oiling it before the first and half way through the second show. (And woe betide you if you didn"t!) Another fellow, recounting his experience in the old days out in the suburbs said you oiled the machine thoroughly every day without fail, and if you heard a funny noise coming from it during the show, you rushed over to the machine, threw open the little door at the back and squirted oil all over everything - and hoped that the funny noise went away! Cheers.  |  IP: Logged Craig Hardy Film Handler Posts: 28 From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA Registered: Oct 2018 posted 10-31-2018 09:28 AM                     WHAT ABOUT 3 IN 1 OIL FOR SIMPLEX? I'm having a hard time finding any non detergent SAE 20 locally. ACCEL 60318 is ND 20, but all stores I've called today don't stock it. 3 in 1 goes back to 1894, and from what I can tell from reading it is a plain machine oil, maybe thinner than SAE 20, and the ORIGINAL Simplex oil circa 1910 was very thin--think I read it was about 7.5. IF suitable for use on these old Simplex's, the container with long pull-out clear tube spout makes it IDEAL for oiling these projectors. COMMENTS, ANYBODY???  |  IP: Logged

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