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Author Topic: cooling problem in NEC 1600C and 2000C Charle Shen Film Handler Posts: 5 From: Shanghai / China Registered: Jun 2011 posted 03-09-2012 10:44 PM                     Dear All, Recently I find a problem in NEC projector 1600C and 2000C. The cable and connector in the lamp will be oxidized due to over high temperature though we replace the filter often. How we can avoid the over temperature issue ? thanks for any suggestions and advise. best rgds, charle  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 03-09-2012 11:22 PM                        Try something like this. We had the box "manufactured" by a local sheet metal company for about $30 and then used standard stove pipe and ventilation tubes to connect it to our roof exhaust. We have had zero heat problems because of this system.  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 03-10-2012 04:25 AM                     Hello Charle, Justin solution is very good but to start with, have you got extractors on your projectors? Have you ever measured their airflow? I am not sure whether the 35mm airflow recommendations would apply for D-Cinema - Christie recommends much lower settings - but as a starting point let's see what your setup is.  |  IP: Logged Stefan Vogels Film Handler Posts: 48 From: Aarle-Rixtel, Noord-Brabant, Netherlands Registered: Jan 2010 posted 03-10-2012 07:23 AM                     The NEC NC1600 & NC2000 requires 780 m3/h of exhaust. This will ensure the projector stays cooled( if the booth is also cooled ) Regards, Stefan  |  IP: Logged Kerry Fleming Film Handler Posts: 46 From: Boynton Beach, FL, USA Registered: Mar 2003 posted 03-10-2012 02:39 PM                        Justin, I can understand the booster inline duct fan. I have a Fan Tech 600 cfm on our NEC 1600C but, suspended it from the ceiling to avoid transmitting vibration into the lamp house. Aren't you exhausting across the lamp house air injection intake vent with your box & stove pipe? I've never had an over heating problem and, the exhaust duct connection to the projector is barely warm. Do you remove the box & pipe to change bulbs? Looks like lamp house access panel is blocked.  |  IP: Logged Jake Spell Master Film Handler Posts: 294 From: Johns Island SC Registered: May 2009 posted 03-10-2012 03:06 PM                     The booster fan that is pictured there is a cheep inline propeler fan that moves very little air in a high static condition as you have with digital projectors and the small 8" flexible ducting. If you are doing what Justin did the correct way would be to put the fan above the wye and put a damper on the box that sucks the heat off the rectifier. This way you can balance it so that you dont push air into the rectifier and also so that you dont sacrifice lamp cooling. To answer the OP question you should have a minimum 600cfm going through the stack. THe easiest way of doing this is to put and inline centrifugal fan, like this one FG 8xl  |  IP: Logged Charle Shen Film Handler Posts: 5 From: Shanghai / China Registered: Jun 2011 posted 03-12-2012 08:09 AM                     Hi Justin, Thanks a lot for your solution. In our projector, we only have the booster fan. So the metal in anode end is always oxidized, like the picture. I will modify the cooling in my projector and feedback. Thanks a lot for your help. best rgds, Charle  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 03-12-2012 01:00 PM                     You think that anode blower should keep that front end cool enough to keep it from getting that discolored. Front end is definitely getting too hot for comfort - almost looks like the rectifer is over driving the bulb. I would do some internal fan checking..  |  IP: Logged

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