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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Digital Cinema Forum   » Barco DP2K-32B is 7FL all to be expected... (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Barco DP2K-32B is 7FL all to be expected...
Dave Handley
Film Handler

Posts: 6
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2003


 - posted 06-06-2013 12:07 PM      Profile for Dave Handley   Email Dave Handley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A local (formerly my local...) drive-in here in southwestern OH, with a brand new 32B and 7 FL. Kinda pathetic after I maintained about 11 FL scope with film for about the last 17 or so years. The installing tech says thats the best they can do. The light field seems way flat to me. To the point of wasteful. Am I used to a "hot spot" set up you ask. I stayed near a 25 to 30% roll-off from center to edge on film which I found nearly invisible with film. Can at least some level of this be done with these units without damage? Then can gamma be adjusted to compensate for below normal brightness? This is an 80ft screen approx 200ft throw, no tilt, SW XL100 paint two years ago. Barco states this machine can handle a 105ft screen.! Guess they dont mind pushing truth and reality some. That light is half what it should be with a brand new Ushio(6.5KW). CLO is off ("bulb savings"). And after a couple hundred hours...beyond pathetic! Thanks for any feedback/suggestions. Dave

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 06-06-2013 12:54 PM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If your bulb is using the normal mode and not the CLO mode, check the slider and see if it is slid all the way over to the left or right. If all the way to the left then it is too low. If all the way to the right then it is using max power. With the size lamp you mention there should be three power supplies installed in the projector. Look in the back compartment of the projector and make sure you see three power supplies and not just two.

You do not want to focus the lamp out of position because you run the risk of overheating the integrator rod and the UV mirrors.

Are you using a 2K light engine chip set or a 4K light engine chip set? When we switched our 2K light engines to 4K we found that our light levels had increased.

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Tim Sherman
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 125
From: North Ridgeville, OH, USA
Registered: Aug 2000


 - posted 06-06-2013 01:27 PM      Profile for Tim Sherman   Author's Homepage   Email Tim Sherman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The rated output is of the barco is with a 7k bulb, and is the brightest projector made. Also that claim for that size of screen is assuming your using a gain screen like and indoor screen does, and a drive-in screen does not have much gain at all. I am running 2 32B's at my drive-in, one on a 118' x 50' screen with a 513' throw. and i am impressed at the light output. Unfortunately i do not have a light meter to give you my exact numbers. What lens are you using? Also don't forget with film your scope picture was brighter, in digital your flat picture is brighter.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-06-2013 01:30 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Dave,

Tell us what your screen width is and what your throw (distance from projector to screen) is. Also look on the front edge of the lens barrel and tell us everything printed on it. (You don't need to remove the lens to see this.)

If you had a brighter image with film, then I'll bet you anything your installer/dealer ordered you the wrong lens and he is scaling the image on the chip, essentially throwing out most of the available light.

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Jack Ondracek
Film God

Posts: 2348
From: Port Orchard, WA, USA
Registered: Oct 2002


 - posted 06-06-2013 04:41 PM      Profile for Jack Ondracek   Author's Homepage   Email Jack Ondracek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually, that is fairly close to what I am getting with a 32B on my 86-foot screen, non-gain, corrugated metal, flat-white Kelly-Moore paint. The projector was calibrated by American Cinema, using some fairly impressive equipment.

Prior to that, I was using Big Sky 7kW lamphouses. I found them easily the equal of the Strong Ultra-80, except they had glass dichroic reflectors and kept my projectors much cooler than the Strong. I also had new Schneider lenses on that screen. In short, I think I was shoving about as much energy through a frame of film as you could safely do. I was NOT shaving my shutters, so I imagine some drive-ins could have had marginally brighter pictures than I had here.

The performance of the 32B surpassed what I was getting out of film in most respects (I won't get into the film/digital debate here). My screen is easily brighter, but not substantially so. It is evenly lit and the picture is rock solid and crystal clear. I'm in the high 9's with my 23Bs on 60-foot screens.

I don't know what you were expecting from a projector with comparable wattage, but my experience here is far from "pathetic".

BTW... this could be debated, but my tests here showed that Kelly-Moore paint is "whiter" than the comparable Sherwin Williams product. Years ago, I started with SW and found it to be darker than the Killz primer that I painted it over. A SW rep admitted that they put a small amount of black into the paint, purportedly to help hide dirt better (?)... I've used Kelly-Moore ever since. Still, I know a lot of owners seem to like the A-100 product from SW.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 06-06-2013 07:51 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In the past, I knew of some "ozoner" owners that would use reflective street paint for their screens when they were due for repainting.

Made fantastic results after this paint usage.

Happy Anniversary to the Drive-Ins and their respective owners !!

-Monte

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Dave Handley
Film Handler

Posts: 6
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2003


 - posted 06-07-2013 07:53 AM      Profile for Dave Handley   Email Dave Handley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for the responses and suggestions. This owner has developed the habit of starting before total darkness in the evenings. So he has noticed the reduction in light on his screen. I have particularly noticed (due to very high contrast) the loss of impact from very dark scenes. Film may have compressed to some degree the range of light to dark and for our situation here with reduced overall light level, netted us a plus. Digital technology offers the ability to correct/adjust things like light to dark tracking. Even my home video projector has a "gamma" adjust feature. Some bluray content needs a nudge up, some down. As my bulb ages, at some point, I give gamma a click untill I get a new bulb. Gamma adjust can and should be used to compensate for below standard light level. I presume with such lavish control over color correction which these machines are capable is some control over gamma but I need some expert input here to confirm and describe. Jack, we also had that Big Sky 7KW lamphouse with dichroic reflector. I heard that the reflector may have been Kineton-but whatever it was, I never got such a spectacular spot of light in a projector before. I lined it up with laser, "shaved" ten degrees off the shutter(each blade) but moved it as close as possible to the film. Louis Bornwasser manufactured a replacement shutter drive which allowed me to do this without any noticable travel ghost whatsoever (was rid of that century gallup). I dumped the water jacket on the Century DA but added several tight (to the light cone) Macor ceramic heat shields to the gate block, including a Macor aperature plate got me a very cool (well pee warm) gate. I believe that film buckle and blister was minimized by keeping the film as cool as possible right up to the very moment of exposure(s). An older Schneider high speed prime and WA anamorphic, and lastly a properly angled piece of PPG Starfire port glass got my 11 FL with new Ushio 6 KW bulb. I only got one emergency call about a print being cooked (just slightly) as it ran, and that was one of Nolans Dark Knight films, which was using some of that silver retained super high contrast Eastman stock. Just what a drive-in needed! So this new gadget has some pretty high standards to rise to, and I think it is fully capable of doing so. But a little more expertise and massagin by somebody beyond me or the guy who put this thing in. Thanks to all who have responded. The slider is 75% full up, its the right lens, its 2K of course, and lastly: the screen is what it was when we had 11 FL scope with film! By the way this installer has the new port angled precisely to cast reflected light perfectly centered back upon the projection lens. No glare in the eyes of the operator etc and whatever, lol. Now that is truly attention to detail!

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 06-07-2013 10:57 AM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paragraph

I don't believe D-Cinema projectors have a means of correcting gamma. At least I've never come across such adjustment and I've certainly never used it.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-07-2013 10:59 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Dave - If you are going to come on here and ask for advice, be prepared to answer the questions when people try to troubleshoot. You are complaining that the digital got darker than your film was (with or without any improvements). That's not the case. Something is wrong. Who is telling you that you have the right lens? I don't buy it. Either you have the wrong lens for your scenario and somebody is trying to cover their ass, or your installer has no idea how to align that bulb. Either way, that points to the dealer/installer (who by the way is improperly reflecting the image back into the lens).

Ken - Christie projectors can. It's right there in the GUI and in the simplest sense, can make a "drive-in print" out of a normal DCP.

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Bajsic Bojan
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Ljubljana, Si, Eu
Registered: Aug 2008


 - posted 06-07-2013 01:41 PM      Profile for Bajsic Bojan   Email Bajsic Bojan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You state attention to detail by reflecting light straight back and starting shows before it gets dark?

You also state using a new 6kW ushio at one point and 6.5kW ushio with a 'couple hundred hours'. So which one is it?

Then you say the slider is 75% up, which would be in the operating range of about 5400W for the 6kW lamp? Do a read out off the lamp info screen. Why would you run at "75% up" and moan about not getting bright enough if your projector is capable of it? its two buttons to push.

You say you had 11 ftL on scope before, which means you had about 7-8 ftL on flat? Thats way below standard and 'detailed'. Digital is the other way around and if you have 7 on scope, should have about 10 on flat with the same screen. Still, just by calculating numbers on a fully operational new 6kW lamp, it should be closer to 10-11 for scope and 14 for flat. on a 1.0 gain screen. But since you state 11 ftL on 35mm with a 7kW lamp (and a modified projector shutter), it is apparently more 'gainy'...

Someone has made something wrong and you should get it properly checked.

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Marco Giustini
Film God

Posts: 2713
From: Reading, UK
Registered: Nov 2007


 - posted 06-07-2013 02:12 PM      Profile for Marco Giustini   Email Marco Giustini   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I think the gamma can be adjusted in the TI software - Christie happen to have it on the GUI as well. SONY have it on the GUI as well.

You cannot calibrate it though, only set different values such 2.2-2.3-2.4 and so on.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 06-07-2013 07:31 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Christie has made Gamma presets (usable by any DLP projector,BTW...They are LUT-DG files. Barco and NEC opted to go for full PCF files that contain the Gamma built into the file. And, if you have the Post-Production version of the Communicator program, you can create your own Gamma files...and not just simple uniform color gamma...you can adjust the gamma on a color by color basis too.

I'm sure the theory has been...Gamma is at 2.6 for DCinema (by specification) and 2.3 for HDTV so there is no need to muck with it.

However, there probably is a legitimate reason to make allowances for Drive-Ins but it should be a bit more controlled and not by the untrained eye. The key would be to hit the right light level (that doesn't make the drive-in screen look ugly) and also presents the movie as faithfully as the Drive In system can reasonably achieve. Historically, there were "Drive-In" prints and I don't see why that can't be carried forward to today. In some respects, running a "3D" version of the movie with just one "eye" should look better (light wise) than the normal 2D version since the 3D version was timed for lower light.

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Dave Handley
Film Handler

Posts: 6
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2003


 - posted 06-08-2013 04:05 PM      Profile for Dave Handley   Email Dave Handley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Steve, you make changing those operational control files sound easy as 1-2-3. I am unsure our installer would be equipped to handle this or anyone under the Strong banner for that matter. Can you suggest someone, some alternate way to get this accomplished? I suspect a minimal gamma reduction from the 2.6 down to 2.4, even 2.5 , along with getting that light up to 10FL scope(where it should be) would make the significant improvement we're looking for.
Brad, the throw ratio here is 2.75. I assume the 2.15-3.6 lens has been installed, but intend to double check this as soon as I can. You assume a degree of carelessness/incompetance on the installers part that even my cynical self doubted. I think you are spot on with your assessment that the bulb simply, for what ever reason, has not been aligned properly.
Thank you all for your input and help on this. I haven't posted here, but I have used this site for a wealth of info. Brad, as purely difficult as you are fully capable of being, you need to be commended for keeping this thing alive and well all these years. May it and you continue for many more. Thanks again.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009


 - posted 06-08-2013 08:01 PM      Profile for Carsten Kurz   Email Carsten Kurz   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
These bulbs will have to be changed frequently. Will you do this yourself? Maybe it would be advisable to invest into one of Barcos more expensive lamphouses with auto alignment?

You say the installer put the new port glas in without proper tilt towards the lens (will you have him fix this?).
Did the same installer also choose the glas type for this port?

- Carsten

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 06-09-2013 12:08 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Dave Handley
Brad, the throw ratio here is 2.75. I assume the 2.15-3.6 lens has been installed
A bit of a short throw on a big screen, or a very small screen on a long throw with that low of lens factor

Or, run without port glasss - to get every bit of light out to the screen.

Plain glass contains so much lead that it soaks up light, why with most digital installs, a lead free port glass is used.

It's rather pricey on the side, but allows more light to pass through.

I bet your installer didn't calibrate the light sensor inside the projector. He needs to do some more adjustments to get you a better picture.

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