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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Topic: Barco DP2K-32B is 7FL all to be expected...
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Jack Ondracek
Film God
Posts: 2348
From: Port Orchard, WA, USA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 06-06-2013 04:41 PM
Actually, that is fairly close to what I am getting with a 32B on my 86-foot screen, non-gain, corrugated metal, flat-white Kelly-Moore paint. The projector was calibrated by American Cinema, using some fairly impressive equipment.
Prior to that, I was using Big Sky 7kW lamphouses. I found them easily the equal of the Strong Ultra-80, except they had glass dichroic reflectors and kept my projectors much cooler than the Strong. I also had new Schneider lenses on that screen. In short, I think I was shoving about as much energy through a frame of film as you could safely do. I was NOT shaving my shutters, so I imagine some drive-ins could have had marginally brighter pictures than I had here.
The performance of the 32B surpassed what I was getting out of film in most respects (I won't get into the film/digital debate here). My screen is easily brighter, but not substantially so. It is evenly lit and the picture is rock solid and crystal clear. I'm in the high 9's with my 23Bs on 60-foot screens.
I don't know what you were expecting from a projector with comparable wattage, but my experience here is far from "pathetic".
BTW... this could be debated, but my tests here showed that Kelly-Moore paint is "whiter" than the comparable Sherwin Williams product. Years ago, I started with SW and found it to be darker than the Killz primer that I painted it over. A SW rep admitted that they put a small amount of black into the paint, purportedly to help hide dirt better (?)... I've used Kelly-Moore ever since. Still, I know a lot of owners seem to like the A-100 product from SW.
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Dave Handley
Film Handler
Posts: 6
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 06-07-2013 07:53 AM
Thanks for the responses and suggestions. This owner has developed the habit of starting before total darkness in the evenings. So he has noticed the reduction in light on his screen. I have particularly noticed (due to very high contrast) the loss of impact from very dark scenes. Film may have compressed to some degree the range of light to dark and for our situation here with reduced overall light level, netted us a plus. Digital technology offers the ability to correct/adjust things like light to dark tracking. Even my home video projector has a "gamma" adjust feature. Some bluray content needs a nudge up, some down. As my bulb ages, at some point, I give gamma a click untill I get a new bulb. Gamma adjust can and should be used to compensate for below standard light level. I presume with such lavish control over color correction which these machines are capable is some control over gamma but I need some expert input here to confirm and describe. Jack, we also had that Big Sky 7KW lamphouse with dichroic reflector. I heard that the reflector may have been Kineton-but whatever it was, I never got such a spectacular spot of light in a projector before. I lined it up with laser, "shaved" ten degrees off the shutter(each blade) but moved it as close as possible to the film. Louis Bornwasser manufactured a replacement shutter drive which allowed me to do this without any noticable travel ghost whatsoever (was rid of that century gallup). I dumped the water jacket on the Century DA but added several tight (to the light cone) Macor ceramic heat shields to the gate block, including a Macor aperature plate got me a very cool (well pee warm) gate. I believe that film buckle and blister was minimized by keeping the film as cool as possible right up to the very moment of exposure(s). An older Schneider high speed prime and WA anamorphic, and lastly a properly angled piece of PPG Starfire port glass got my 11 FL with new Ushio 6 KW bulb. I only got one emergency call about a print being cooked (just slightly) as it ran, and that was one of Nolans Dark Knight films, which was using some of that silver retained super high contrast Eastman stock. Just what a drive-in needed! So this new gadget has some pretty high standards to rise to, and I think it is fully capable of doing so. But a little more expertise and massagin by somebody beyond me or the guy who put this thing in. Thanks to all who have responded. The slider is 75% full up, its the right lens, its 2K of course, and lastly: the screen is what it was when we had 11 FL scope with film! By the way this installer has the new port angled precisely to cast reflected light perfectly centered back upon the projection lens. No glare in the eyes of the operator etc and whatever, lol. Now that is truly attention to detail!
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Dave Handley
Film Handler
Posts: 6
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 06-08-2013 04:05 PM
Steve, you make changing those operational control files sound easy as 1-2-3. I am unsure our installer would be equipped to handle this or anyone under the Strong banner for that matter. Can you suggest someone, some alternate way to get this accomplished? I suspect a minimal gamma reduction from the 2.6 down to 2.4, even 2.5 , along with getting that light up to 10FL scope(where it should be) would make the significant improvement we're looking for. Brad, the throw ratio here is 2.75. I assume the 2.15-3.6 lens has been installed, but intend to double check this as soon as I can. You assume a degree of carelessness/incompetance on the installers part that even my cynical self doubted. I think you are spot on with your assessment that the bulb simply, for what ever reason, has not been aligned properly. Thank you all for your input and help on this. I haven't posted here, but I have used this site for a wealth of info. Brad, as purely difficult as you are fully capable of being, you need to be commended for keeping this thing alive and well all these years. May it and you continue for many more. Thanks again.
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