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Author
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Topic: NEC1200C Max Light Output
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!
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Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 10-24-2015 04:26 PM
NO!...you can put any HS type lamp in there with the supplied adapter but the NEC line of projectors are not the brightest...in fact, they are the dimmest of them all. On any given category, take a Christie or Barco light output on a given wattage and knock off 20% and that is about the light you'll get. They've been fudging their numbers on their (Ushio or NEC's) web page too. They claim that it will do 9700 lumens. Maybe with the best lens they have on the first instant that the lamp is struck (after a 5 minute warm up). But in reality, you are going to get closer to 7700-7800 lumens out of it. You also waste a bit of light overcoming their color too so I suppose if you didn't color correct, you could get some more light out of it.
Max wattage on the lamp is supposed to 2000 watts and don't push that LPS any harder anyway or that will leave you too. It might be rated up to 2400 watts but that would be it. I don't think the projector software will allow you to try and drive it harder, regardless of the parameters you put in (it shouldn't...I'd hope it would try to protect itself).
I'm not trying to be mean about the NEC...they are not particularly failure prone or anything and they use Minolta lenses throughout but light quantity is just not their strong suit. Then again, neither is Christie's CP2210/15...while it can put out some light, it can only do so with "special" lamps that cost a lot more to operate than conventional digital lamps.
Oh, remember too, the harder you drive a lamp, the faster the decay.
Note, on the Barco side of things (just because it is related to getting extra brightness out of a 2K system)...you CAN put in the DXL-22BAF and indeed get it up in the 11,500 lumen range but again, your cost/hour skyrockets. The cost of the lamp goes up and the life span drops to less than half.
If NEC had a baby xenon projector like Barco, that is how you can sneak in more brightness. The DXL-16BAF and DXL-22BAF lamps are extra-short arcs to deal with the .69" chips...as such they are quite a bit brighter than equivalent wattage lamps. Don't believe me, try a DXL-16BAF in place of a DXL-20BAF/L and the brightness is nearly similar on the top-end (closer to 90%).
And think about this...the next jump for the NEC lamp (if you had a NC2000 instead of the 1200) is a 4000-watt lamp!!!! Yes, you can put in a 3000-watt cinema lamp but its light output will be less than the 2000-watt digital (I've measured). That is how inefficient these projectors are. It is probably why NEC is moving towards the laser world (I've heard that they are don't with making new designs in Xenon DCinema projectors).
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Ian Freer
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 135
From: Wellington, New Zealand
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 10-26-2015 04:01 PM
A couple of things you could check: How much physical tilt vs lens shift have you applied in the installation?
I have noticed a very distinct drop-off in light output with lens-shift applied. I have some installations where we have used max lens shift down to keep keystone to a minimum as the theatre geometry is not ideal. In this situation there is a measurable hotspot at the top of the screen (so the max centre fL is much lower than any brightness calculation will say is possible). To get the best light output (admittedly at the expense of image distortion) one would normally centre the lens then adjust the projector's physical tilt so the centre of the projected image is in the centre of the screen.
Also, it would be interesting to know, has the projector performance deteriorated significantly over the 2 years you've been using it or is there no record of fL at initial installation?
Is this the original lamp or has the lamp been replaced once/many times? Simply re-adjusting the X,Y,Z can gain you a couple of fL after the lamp has settled in (after around 100hrs or so it can be beneficial to recheck the alignment).
When lamps are installed do you use a light meter to adjust the X,Y,Z, or do you use the internal DCC Bulb Alignment meter? I have seen a couple of examples in an NC-2000 where when aligned using the internal meter, there was an obvious hotspot to the left of the screen. Adjusting the lamp with my PSA achieved far better results on screen but the internal Bulb Alignment number was about half of the max-hold number in DCC at the time. I thought this may have been a significant error with the projector, but upon the next lamp change the internal meter and the PCA alignment correlated perfectly, so I don't know why occasionally there is a discrepancy.
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