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Author Topic: Barco DP2K-32B lamp house stuck? Andrew Thomas Master Film Handler Posts: 273 From: Pearland, TX, USA Registered: Jun 2012 posted 05-02-2016 02:46 AM                     My projectionist called me this evening and said that while attempting to change the lamp, something he has done many many times, the lamp house seemed to be stuck. It would slide out about an inch or so before hanging up. I checked it myself and it seems to be catching on something in the top left corner of the lamphouse. Barco tech support people seemed to think this was a known issue where the house fuses to some board in the projector and ultimately the board and house need to be replaced. I've got an email out to a Barco certified company, but any other thoughts or suggestions?  |  IP: Logged Andrew Thomas Master Film Handler Posts: 273 From: Pearland, TX, USA Registered: Jun 2012 posted 05-02-2016 04:19 AM                     Video link Took the exhaust fan off to get a look inside. That's what I found. Any tips on what to do?  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 05-02-2016 04:51 AM                     I've seen that before. The anode wick had not been tightened properly and it welded the whole thing together. Good luck. No easy fix for that. Hammer on it from the chimney and hope not to damage too many things. Then, buy a torque spanner!  |  IP: Logged Andrew Thomas Master Film Handler Posts: 273 From: Pearland, TX, USA Registered: Jun 2012 posted 05-02-2016 05:17 AM                     That's the thing, I have no idea how to get any closer to it as the top of the lamphouse itself doesn't seem to come off. the video was recorded through the mesh on the top panel.  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 05-02-2016 06:04 AM                     The SPG pulls out to the left so you will have the same basic problem if you go at it from that side, it won't because the connector is welded together. You need new connector assemblies minimum. The SPG may be damaged. I would try to get at the connector from the top, back, and left sides of the projector, hoping to get a hacksaw blade in to cut it apart. Maybe Barco has some trick to deal with this, you could try asking them...  |  IP: Logged Andrew Thomas Master Film Handler Posts: 273 From: Pearland, TX, USA Registered: Jun 2012 posted 05-02-2016 06:10 AM                     Barco tech said brute force is about all you can do, but try not to be ridiculous as you don't want the bulb to explode on you. They also said nearly 100% guarantee the SPG needs to be replaced. Is the SPG the part with the two posts that the lamp house slides on to? If so, seems like best bet is to get out the Dremel tool and cut it from the other side of the projector close to where is goes into the lamp house through the plastic port?  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 05-02-2016 06:25 AM                     quote: Andrew Thomas Barco tech said brute force is about all you can do I agree with Barco unfortunately. Yes, the SPG is that one.  |  IP: Logged Andrew Thomas Master Film Handler Posts: 273 From: Pearland, TX, USA Registered: Jun 2012 posted 05-02-2016 07:15 AM                     Anybody see any issue with cutting the fused post with a dremel tool? I've yanked this thing around from both the lamp house and SPG sides for a few hours. Doesn't seem to be be budging.  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 05-02-2016 07:57 AM                     don't think so, besides that you will need a new SPG!  |  IP: Logged Carsten Kurz Film God Posts: 4340 From: Cologne, NRW, Germany Registered: Aug 2009 posted 05-02-2016 08:56 AM                     Any way to cut it without spilling loads of metal particles inside as with a Dremel? - Carsten  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-02-2016 09:52 AM                     locate the hose of a shop vac close to the cutter to capture as much as possible  |  IP: Logged Jason Raftery Film Handler Posts: 72 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: May 2011 posted 05-02-2016 12:36 PM                     I've dealt with a handful of these before and haven't had to cut one out yet. Try bolting the lamphouse back in place, then go around to the other side of the projector, loosen the three captive flat head screws that secure the SPG in place, and yank the SPG out of the machine. Sometimes it takes a fair bit of rocking it back and forth to get it to break free, but it will usually come out if you work at it enough. You will definitely need a new anode electrical connector / teflon insulator on the lamphouse, but the SPG itself might have survived. This type of welding occurs because either the anode connector was not properly tightened when the lamp was installed or the anode eyelet/nuts/washers were positioned with too much or too little play in the anode electrical connector to allow the connector to seat correctly on the SPG.  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 05-02-2016 02:09 PM                     The nuts can go anywhere you like, the connector seats with the lamphouse side pushed all the way in. Any slack just lets you pull the lamphouse out a bit before the connector starts getting pulled apart - not a bad idea if one is sticky ... you use the whole lamphouse as a slide hammer. The older connectors had a hollow "bolt" that would collapse if the nuts were over-torqued, that's been changed to solid/stronger. From the image my guess is that the nuts were left finger tight. Easy to do if distracted during a lamp change.  |  IP: Logged Jason Raftery Film Handler Posts: 72 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: May 2011 posted 05-02-2016 11:13 PM                     quote: Dave Macaulay The nuts can go anywhere you like, the connector seats with the lamphouse side pushed all the way in. Any slack just lets you pull the lamphouse out a bit before the connector starts getting pulled apart While I agree this burned up connection looks to be the result of not sufficiently tightening the anode nuts, the positioning of the nuts does matter--particularly if the posts on the SPG were not lubricated by the factory. I found out the hard way when I had the anode connector burn up on a new 32B from arcing between the SPG and the lamphouse anode connector on a lamp that was installed with a torque wrench in accordance with Barco's installation procedures. If the nuts are positioned snug against the Teflon insulator, the lamphouse connector will have trouble seating on the SPG post. That is also true if the nuts are left positioned all the way at the other end of the bolt away from the SPG. I've never seen this written in an official Barco manual but the advice I received from Barco USA was to position the nuts on both the anode and cathode connectors such that when each connector is pushed in from the outside of the lamphouse, the gap between the back of the Teflon block and the nut closest to it should be between the thickness of 1-2 US quarters. Additionally, if the lamphouse has difficulty seating on or letting go of the SPG posts and the play in the anode and cathode connectors is correct, the SPG posts may not have been adequately greased by the factory. The circuit I work for had a number of new 32B and 23B projectors where the lamphouses would get stuck on the SPG, in some cases requiring us to remove the SPGs to get them out. Barco recommended applying a small amount of a specific grease to the SPG to prevent lamphouse fitment issues. Here's what one looked like once greased: Once we applied the grease to the problem projectors and began positioning the nuts on the anode and cathode connectors in the manner in which Barco suggested, our problems with burned up connectors and sticking lamphouses disappeared.  |  IP: Logged Phil Ranucci Expert Film Handler Posts: 236 From: Carpinteria,CA, United States Registered: May 2006 posted 05-02-2016 11:50 PM                     On the smaller Barco lamphouses the anode/cathode aren't threaded all the way to the SPG side. They have an unthreaded area and with the nuts on them there is some movement possible on them, this I believe helps them line up with the SPG. Kind of like the blue plastic connectors on the lamphouse. What grease do you use?  |  IP: Logged

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