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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Kia Fuel Injection Problems
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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster
Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-22-2003 10:47 PM
Ok all you home mechanics......Here's one for you...... I just rebuilt the top end of my 95 KIA Sportage. It had overheated and burned two of the valves, plus blew the head gasket....actually it probably happened the other way around. The engine runs pretty good again, but the check engine light comes on after it has warmed up and is sitting idling. It also idles a bit on the rough side, plus fuel consumption is somewhat higher than it was.
This is a pretty typical Bosch type injection system with single O2 sensor. So I checked the ECU to see what malfunction code I would get and it comes up with a code 17, which means there is a problem in the feedback loop. That usually means the Oxygen Sensor, or some other sensor has failed, but they say the Oxygen sensor is the most common problem in all cars that have them. Anyway, I've checked most of the sensors and they seem fine. Throttle position sensor, Cam position sensor, Mass Air Flow, ECU temp. sensor....all seem to be working fine. Compression is right up there where it belongs in all four cylinders. The Oxygen sensor voltage output also seems to be ok and does not seem to behave sluggishly at all, which might indicate that its bad. O2 sensor output starts at .45 volts when cold, then at idle as the engine warms up it drops to .19 volts. At high speed revving I saw .79 volts. Keep in mind that the DVM ssampling rate seems to be the limiting factor in observing how quickly the output signal changes. But O2 sensor changes are supposed to be very rapid.
So, Anyone out there have any ideas.....could it be the O2 sensor anyway? Or could something else be causing this.
P.S. Believe me, this KIA has been to the top of many peaks around here and to places full size trucks can't go. Of course it has been beaten to death!!! It finally gave up on a trip to Logan canyon a while back. I think when I get it running correctly I'll trade it in on an old 1960's pickup .
Thanks for any suggestions!! Mark
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-23-2003 03:54 PM
Have you looked at the EGR valve? (Or whatever it's called.) The tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake. It's got a solenoid valve on it. When it opens, it's supposed to recycle exhaust gas back to the intake.
When the engine is cold, it's supposed to let warm air into the intake. When the engine is hot it will shut off. When the engine is somewhere in between, the computer will calculate the proper valve opening based on the readings from the O2 sensors, et. al.
If it's stuck open, you will get poor mileage and less performance when hot. If it's stuck shut you'll get poor mileage and poor performance when cold. If it's stuck part way or leaking, you'll get shitty performance all the time. My Neon had an electrically actuated solenoid which ran a vacuum operated valve. Thus, electrically the thing can appear to work but inside it's stuck.
For my car, the test was to hook a hand operated vacuum pump up to the solenoid and apply suction to it while the engine was running. Alternately applying and releasing suction should open and shut the valve and cause the engine to run differently. It will either pick up or lose a few RPM. If that's good, the next check was the electrical part. If that was good, the next check was the lines and connections to the engine computer.
My Neon gave me at bitch of a time about this for a while. I had it in the shop 3 times and I finally told them to replace the whole damn thing... The valve, actuator, wires and even the computer. Never had a problem with THAT again!
If Sam's suggestion it right, I imagine that could fall into line with what I am thinking... A faulty vacuum system can't properly actuate a vacuum operated part.
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