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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Your Garage Door
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Jon Miller
Jedi Master Film Handler
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Posts: 973
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 04-11-2004 08:23 PM
Down in these parts, virtually all newer houses come with roll-up (segmented) doors while older houses originally had single-panel tilt-ups. Quite a few homeowners, myself included, replaced the old tilt-up doors with roll-ups for a cleaner look and, most importantly, to be able to park a car close to the garage (if you have a garage with so much crap in it you can't park your car in it ) and not have to move it to open the garage door. Yes, the design of a roll-up door is inherently noisier than a tilt-up, especially the minimally-insulated types whose panels tend to amplify the rattles and bangs of operation.
I caught a report some years ago regarding old doors, removed when Californian homeowners upgraded from tilt-up to roll-up, routinely being shipped south of the border where they are used for wall and roof panels in the construction of houses in the poorer parts of Baja. Those old doors supposedly worked well for that purpose.
BTW, Joe, there is a new crapper just introduced which its manufacturer claims can flush much more than a single turd. ![[Smile]](smile.gif) [ 04-18-2004, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: Jon Miller ]
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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler
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Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999
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posted 04-12-2004 07:06 AM
Thanks Joe, for that revealing image that you just plastered into my widdle mind...
When I worked for Sears about 10 years ago, I worked on garage door openers. They weren't THAT loud. Most doors are the sectionals now. The solid doors are only found on really old homes around here in NC.
My own garage, that is so full of movie equipment that I can't park my car in there anymore, had a "track-drive" opener first. What a noisy POS! While at Sears, I got a chain-drive. Much quieter.
The secret to a good long quiet life for your door is maintenance! Oil the rollers and hinges yearly!
Now and then, disconnect the opener from the door (with the release) and manually raise and lower the door by hand. It should easily go up and down. If it is heavy, you need to adjust the door springs. My door will go up and down when I push it with one hand. This also takes alot of load off of the plastic gears that are used in most of the newer GDO systems.
It's also a good idea to check the force adjustments on your door, too. If you need to know how to do this, read your instructions. I can reverse my door just by putting reverse pressure on it with my hands while it comes down.
My door has been problem-free for 10 years. Maintenance!
The reason for the switch from trac-drive to chain drive was to gain the door sensors that reverse the door if something comes thru the door while it is coming down. Almost lost a kitten to my door that tried to get out while the door was working...
Since I got my Lo-Flo toilet, I've had to have Roto Rooter out twice. Seems that there is not enough flow to get the 'waste' all the way out to the street where the big line is. I disabled the low-flow feature on my toilet last summer after the 2nd Roto Rooter visit.
What varied topics we have here! I love this place!
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