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I’m needing to convert my current Christie 3-phase 2kw lamphouse to a single phase 1kw or less, swapping the power supply seems like it would be the easiest option. What affordable options (third party or otherwise) are out there to power xenon lamps? I’ve struck out on Google, any sort of option I’ve found costs many thousands of $$$. I currently have no light source for my projector.
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There are a few choices but practically speaking, a Strong switcher rectifier is the best choice. They will run on single of 3 phase 220 Volts.
I've got a few late model ones in stock and quite reasonably priced. There are also Xetron or Irem brand ones around, They are both good choices but heavy to ship to SLC. -
The Strong switcher was also offered in 120V. Since the switcher makes its own voltage levels (I think it starts at somewhere in the 330V range) it doesn't care too much where it starts. That said, a 120V switcher will only have 120V on wires 2 and 4 to power the lamphouse...handy for a Super Lume-X where a Strong power supply normally needs a step-down transformer for the lamphouse power.Comment
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For sure the Strong Switcher. They produce essentially no ripple. And what ripple they do produce is at such a high frequency that it is basically invisible to the xenon lamp. Inrush current is also better controlled. But stay away from Strong High Reactance units.Comment
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A couple of months ago, someone I know was looking for a single phase Xenon power supply ,
and I pointed him to a guy on e-bay who is selling awolebuncha Strong 6100 220V single ϕ
power supplies for $225 + shipping. I don't know if the guy who asked me wound up buying
one, but the listing is still up & it sez there are still 3 available. Search for "Strong Xenon
Power Supply" on e-bay & you can't miss the listing. And, as I mentioned in a previous
post, I know a theater in SF that ran for many years was running a 3ϕ power supply on
single phase power by using a couple of big capacitors to create a psudeo 3ph leg.
I think it's not too efficient from an energy standpoint, and it caused the transformer coils
in the rectifier to emit a buzz that was very annoying if you were in the booth for any
length of time, - - but it worked, and they used that set up for over 10yrs with no problems.
(Screenshot From E-Bay Listing)
PowerSupplyEbayPic.jpg
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jim, the 61000 series is just the power supply mark warns about, the 'high reactance' type, they are extremely heavy (approx 125lbs) and are a piece of crap, they have an irc diode bridge that is prone to heating and failure! go with a switching type supply, weight 40lbs or so, polyphase and way more dependable! the shipping on one of those is way more than its worth!Comment
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Hi John, do you still have a lamphouse available for me to purchase? This would solve my problem completely. I currently have no light source for my projector. Looking for one ASAP.Originally posted by John Eickhof View Post
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Is it possible to run a ~1000w bulb in a 2000w Christie console if I was somehow able to get a 3phase power converter? 2000w is probably too bright for my small screening room, but I’m new to 35mm projection so I don’t really have a point of reference.Originally posted by Jim Cassedy View Post
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It's too bad I don't still live in Salt Lake City. I moved five years ago...
Keep in mind that you can defocus the lamp to lower the brightness. How even the illumination stays may be another story, but some lamphouses stay pretty even...
I have a good friend that lives in Bountiful that has a top notch screening room, and large film collection. I'll see if he does not mind you getting in touch with him, as he may have some excess gear laying around. If so, I'll send you a P.M. I also forgot to mention to stay away from the first generation Strong switchers. The semiconductors in those are obsolete and can not be obtained, so stick only with the compact switcher. The first gen switcher is exactly the same size as the old high reactance unit. The compact switchers can still be repaired. Another thing to do is start checking around the small independent theaters in.the 5 state area, many of which I serviced for a long time. When we converted them to digital, the film equipment was generally just pushed aside or put in what was the old rectifier room.Comment
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With Christie, things are more tricky. I'm not sure that the 1KW and the 2KW lamps are the same length. In particular, one has to know if the Cathode stem to arc is the same between the two or if the lamp focus range is enough to overcome the length difference. I, honestly, do not recall. If not, it may require some effort. You won't be able to knock down the 2KW rectifier to 1KW. You can go down to 1400, for sure though. There are Hi/Low taps...move them to low. In a commercial setting, one could also move to the 230V input taps. However, in residential, you are already at 240V so you'll be slightly over with the 230V input tap being used.
What is nice about the switch mode rectifier is that it solves all of your problems, power wise. They run on single phase, their range is typically pretty huge to drive your 1KW (or smaller) lamp. Normally, it is the top-end that is the limit of their capabilities. Note, Strong and Irem had numerous models though in the USA, Strong was the prevalent one and it was used with their spotlights as well as cinema.Comment
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The Ushio film projector spec sheet used to be on-line. But now only the digital lamp spec sheet is. Perhaps Steve has one in the Cardinal Archives....Comment
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These guys supplied lots of Strong spotlights, they might have a rectifier.
Selling off their parts inventory.
http://www.arclightefx.com/Comment
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I did find a PDF with the pertinent information:
Screen Shot 2022-11-11 at 7.39.57 AM.png
Note, the CXL-10 (1KW) is 125mm from the rear connector (Cathode) to arc center and the 2KW (CXL-20) is 145mm. 20mm is a LOT of difference for the lamp focus to overcome. The front Yolk will also need attention as the overall length is substantially different too. And this presumes that you have a "K" series lamphouse/console or later and not an "H" that would want that whole glass tube thingy with the sleeve. The lamps are 45mm different in length.
Now, if you have access to a machine shop, suitable adapters could be fabricated to address both length and spacing issues and leave you with your original quest for suitable power.Comment
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steve is correct the cxl 10 is shorter than cxl 20 or 30, they are all htp (threaded pin) style, the fitting for the cathode end is longer for the smaller bulb, i have machined them out of brass with good luck. otherwise the smaller lamp will work just fine and focus well.Comment
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Use a CDXL30"SD" adapter like is supplied with every Christie CP2220/CP4220 projector and you'll have your 20mm on the cathode end. The front Yolk is easy to unscrew 2 bolts and move closer to the reflector.Originally posted by Steve Guttag View Post
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