...and moves in the wrong direction.
Another variable is that the reaction time assumptions only work if the leader of the incoming reel and the tail of the outgoing reel are intact (per SMPTE 301, there are 48 frames of black after 3 on the incoming leader, and 18 frames of picture after the last cue dot frame on the outgoing reel). If it's an old and battered print, on which multiple frames have been lost from the heads and tails due to repeated careless building up and tearing down, those reaction time assumptions go out the window. If I were playing a "virgin" archival print (heads and tails never cut), or one that had only been cut without losing any frames, my technique would be to "miss a beat" after seeing the over cue, and then hit it. But if there are frames missing from either the tail or the leader (or both), I'd punch it on the cue, to eliminate the risk of the audience seeing a flash of black.
Another variable is that the reaction time assumptions only work if the leader of the incoming reel and the tail of the outgoing reel are intact (per SMPTE 301, there are 48 frames of black after 3 on the incoming leader, and 18 frames of picture after the last cue dot frame on the outgoing reel). If it's an old and battered print, on which multiple frames have been lost from the heads and tails due to repeated careless building up and tearing down, those reaction time assumptions go out the window. If I were playing a "virgin" archival print (heads and tails never cut), or one that had only been cut without losing any frames, my technique would be to "miss a beat" after seeing the over cue, and then hit it. But if there are frames missing from either the tail or the leader (or both), I'd punch it on the cue, to eliminate the risk of the audience seeing a flash of black.
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