universal projector company, No. Hollywood, Calif.

[Rick Force]

Is there any info. on this company? What years did they operate from; projector models available? Thank you, Rick

[Tony Bandiera Jr]

I used to work for them in the early 1980's and built a dozen or so of their projectors, lamphouses and rewinders.

The projectors were originally Simplex XL's and 5 star and RCA 9030 soundheads, but then Charlie designed and built their own machines. They were pretty much the same as the Christie P35's (in fact Charlie sold the rights/patents to his design to Christie, which made him and his family a lot of money.) The first machines used Simplex (Lavezzi) Super intermittants and gate and trap assemblies, and a very weak Bodine motor that often needed a spin of the inching knob to start. Later models used the Ultramittant and a gate/trap similar to the P35. The sound head was like the P35 also, with two options: One was a dual optical/mag (single stripe) reader where the cell and mag head were on a very clever slide mechanism (which to my surprise held alignment quite well.) That usually used a mono cell. You could also get an optical only with stereo cell. (There were a few private rooms equipped with stereo cells and the mag option, but as you could guess the stereo alignment was fussy.)

These machines were designed for (and worked well on) location dailies. It had integrated Moviola takeups for both picture and track reels, and the whole machine weighed in at just under 100lbs. Charlie had custom crates made for it and his mini custom sound system (Designed by Jack Cashin of USL fame) that used a Crown DC 50 amp. Many of his machines ended up in several industry clients' rooms. About 5 years ago I actually returned to a room that had the FIRST PAIR of projectors that I assembled. The client (not the original owner) has them on display on each side of the screen. I tried without success to buy them from the client.

Early lamphouse options were a built-in 120v slide projector style lamp (with 25hr rated life) and 500w Kniesley Xenons with those horrid fire hazard Kniesley rectifiers. Later models used a custom built 500w lamphouse with internals by L.P. Assoc. (and a glass reflector which IIRC was a Kniesley), with the rectifier being a very cool (but heavy) custom L.P. Assoc, unit that ran on a standard 120v receptacle. (I think normal current draw on the A.C. side was 13.5 amps at max setting, and around 11 amps at normal midrange bulb current.)

He also made a custom power rewinder that was a workhorse and well made.

Charlie was a master machinist, and used to brag about his "micrometer eye." I once lost a VERY expensive bet with him, saying that he couldn't cut a special Simplex aperture plate to within 5 thousandths on either the horizontal or vertical plane. He wasn't allowed to measure till he was done. Well, he cut that plate, looking at it by eye, then threw it to me saying "Check it." It was SPOT ON in height and off by about 2 thousandths width. It was about a two week paycheck loss.

Charlie was quite the character and could come off as crude and mean at times. Some people loved him, others hated him (and his projectors had that same love it or hate it reaction as well) and many were puzzled by him. I found him more amusing than anything else, but he did have a mean streak that was sadly most often directed at his family.

As for the dynamics of working for Charlie and his family, I can say it was pretty much just like "American Chopper" with the additions to the family of a daughter and mother who also worked at U.P.

[Rick Force]

Hi Tony, thank you for that great info. I have the version with that slide out/in assy to select opt or mag sound. I have the little plug in projection (cup shape) lamp, the control panel is all electronic buttons instead of mechanical switches.. I'll post pics. Note, the larger top reel arm is not shown but is inside the lower cabinet. I'll need to post pics of the arm belts as they are some type of hollow tubing the is but together with a pin. Need to find this as mine have become brittle and are breaking into pieces. I hope someone here has a manual for these they would sell or make (for a fee) a copy of. Not sure how to connect these for sound. I also have the matching power rewinder. Thank you, Rick

[Rick Force]

rewinder pics

[Rick Force]

here are more pics.yes, there is some rust to either clean off (what do I use?) or replace those sprockets, but first I need to know what mechanism in used here.

[Rick Force]

here is the belt tube material I need to replace for the reel arms...something called "rounthane"

[Sean McKinnon]

id love to see pics of the gear side!

[Randy Stankey]

Charlie was a master machinist, and used to brag about his "micrometer eye." I once lost a VERY expensive betwith him, saying that he couldn't cut a special Simplex aperture plate to within 5 thousandths on either the horizontal or vertical plane. He wasn't allowed to measure till he was done. Well, he cut that plate, looking at it by eye, then threw it to me saying "Check it." It was SPOT ON in height and off by about 2 thousandths width. It was about a two week paycheck loss.

I have a hard time believing that a person can machine a part to two thou without using some kind of reference.

I have known a few “old time” machinists and every one of them has their own tricks of the trade.

I grew up in a saloon and, in that atmosphere, it was common for guys to pull one over on each other. Most of the time the stake was just for the loser to buy the next round but, yes, I have seen big money go across the bar on a tricky bet.

People like that ALWAYS have something up their sleeve!

At the least, the guy should have told you how he did it. That’s what these bets are really all about, anyway... Not so much about the money but more about showing another guy how something is done.

[Tony Bandiera Jr]

here are more pics.yes, there is some rust to either clean off (what do I use?) or replace those sprockets, but first I need to know what mechanism in used here.

That is an early run model, with a replacement motor. It has the Super intermittent and gate/trap assy.

You can clean the sprockets and other rusted parts with WD-40 and a green Scotchbrite pad. The sprockets are Lavezzi "VKF" style, same ones used on Christies and Simplexes(IIRC). Most of the parts like rollers, sprockets, pad rollers were common items usually used on Simplex and later Christie models. Not sure what you mean by "what mechanism is(sp) used here" but it is belt driven with timing belts on the backside, and the shaft bearings are IIRC bronze bushings. Use Simplex oil on the shaft bushings.

There never really were any manuals for any of UPC's stuff, and we had hand drawn schematics for the controls. (That relay box on the back door is the motor stop/start control.) The dowser was pulsed directly from the pushbuttons.

Roundthane is still available, do a Google search and you will find suppliers. Try to get the clear type, it lasts longer than the yellow.

id love to see pics of the gear side!

Sean, the drive side is almost exactly like the early Christie P-35. As I said in the first reply, Charlie designed the thing and sold the design to Christie, who after some trial and error, refined it to make it a lot more durable than Charlie's original. But yes, it would be cool to see Rick's machine to see how it was compared to later Christie P35's.

I have a hard time believing that a person can machine a part to two thou without using some kind of reference.

It was true, he often machined parts without picking up a caliper or dial indicator until he was done, and he was spot on a good majority of the time. He had been a machinist for decades, and I have since then met others who can accurately machine parts without measuring till the very end. It just takes years of practice, sharp vision and in the case of Charlie, having made almost all the parts himself hundreds of times.

At the least, the guy should have told you how he did it.

He did. First off, it was from him being very familiar with the dimensions of a standard Simplex plate (In that case it was the 2:1 undersized) that he started with, plus the years he had filed many plates of all specs.

He also taught me a lot, and I got to the point that while I could not hit the mark exactly like he could, I would stop machining so close to the desired spec that I had relatively minor touch ups to make. (I mainly did rewinder parts and spacers for the takeups. I made a few attempts at the soundhead slide mechanism but botched them too often.)

Other than the American Chopper environment, I did enjoy my time working there and did learn quite a bit that has stayed with me to this day.

[Tony Bandiera Jr]

Not sure how to connect these for sound.

Been too many years, but some models had XLR style connectors for the mag and optical on the left back side of the base below the one takeup. If it was originally used in a permanent screening room I think it used a terminal strip inside the lower part of the projector mechanism, in the drive side.

And you are very welcome. If I may ask, where did you get this machine at? And for how much? If you find any more of them, let me know please.

[Randy Stankey]

I've seen too many Old School machinists who just "know stuff."

When I was in about 8th grade, I knew a guy who ran the tool room at a local plant. I was just learning algebra but hadn't started geometry yet. I was sitting in the bar, drinking beer and shooting the shit with this guy...Jim Carstater was his name...how my shop teacher would yell at us for not using a combination square, the "right" way, to get a perfect 90. He looked at me and said, "Bullshit," and showed me how to strike a perfect 90 with just a ruler, a divider and a pencil. He showed me a couple of other tricks, too. Later, I'm in shop class and Mr. Decker, the teacher, catches me drawing a right angle with a ruler and he asks me "Who taught you that?" I told him it was Jim Carstater and Mr. Decker says, "That bastard!" Turns out, Old Jim knew Decker and was was using me to take a shot at my teacher!

Guys like Charlie never make big money bets unless they've got an ace in the hole. He must have had some trick. Maybe the way he lined things up. Maybe he used some geometry trick. I believe you when you say he came within two thou, machining by hand but he did NOT do it "by eye."

Charlie might have taught you everything you know but he never taught you everything HE knew!

[Rick Force]

Here you go Sean and Tony, the guts, lamps and terminal blocks.

[Rick Force]

are these simplex aperture plates (so I know what type to buy)?

[Rick Force]

Tony, I found the projector listed on ebay. As the seller was here in Los Angeles that ran a Sanford & Sons type thrift store, I went to check it out. She had two (I was only going to buy the one listed), but when I saw she had 2, a matched set, I decided to buy the pair. While checking them out, I noticed something painted the same blue buried under stuff. I dug it out and found it was the matching power rewinder, so a complete set. She was asking on ebay $700 for the one projector. She said I could have all for $1000. When I told her about the rust and the work to clean them up, I offered $800 for the set. She took it and the set is now at home with me. She told me the set belonged to a Hollywood producer and got the set when they cleaned out the house. So I guess he moved and didn't want to take the projectors. She had no idea who he was (name). Now with the extra pics, hopefully you can tell me how to connect this up to an amp. There is that terminal strip you mentioned, but nothing labeled. There are 2 shielded 3 wire cables, so is this stereo? I have not cleaned the head yet to see how many gaps there are. There are no XLR (or any other) connectors on the cabinet, so I guess I would connect to that terminal strip and run the cable down that hole next to the strip and out under the pedestal (there are no exit holes in the pedestal that I can find). Is that projection lamp the 25 hr slide projector type you mentioned above? How big a picture should I get with this type lamp? Thank you again for all of your help. I'll keep an eye out for you for more of these. I work in Hollywood, so they do turn up, but not as often as the big, heavy theater units. Rick

[Rick Force]

Those 2 wires at the end of the strip (w/r), they are power to the exciter lamp, but where do I get power to connect to the other side of the strip to complete the circuit? I'll have to check the lamp to see what voltage it runs on. Rick