Originally posted by Rick Force
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That was a VERY early mechanism, as all the ones I built had the newer Ultramittents and newer style gate/traps.
Ok, lots of questions spread out over the posts. so I'll address the sound first and get to the others after..
- The shielded wires on the left of the strip are one for the mag head and the other for the mono cell. Gently tug on the wires to see which one goes where, as it depends on who at the shop built them as to which was which. I always did mag on the left, optical on the right. When a stereo cell was installed I did left, common, right on the first three screws from the left. You will need at least a microphone mixer to get the sound boosted up to a level for an amplifier. Best to find (and you can get them cheap on ebay) an older cinema processor (Dolby CP50, 500 or 650 or any of the excellent Ultra*Stereo units) as you can get proper eq and levels from it. The mag head will also work with a mic input, but may tend to be bass heavy. Yes the wires go down the hole and usually in installs there were conduits under the base in the floor where the sound and power entered.
- I cannot recall the proper voltage for that exciter lamp. You can find the lamp type stamped on it, and a search will tell you the specs. It is low voltage DC (5-10 volts or so) at a medium current (3-5 amps.) You can probably safely light it with a 6 volt power supply that can do at least 3 amps. Simply connect the output of the DC supply positive to red, negative to white. (A 6 volt lantern battery will work for a test, but it will drain pretty fast.)
- Yes those are regular Simplex aperture plates, I may still have a few stashed away, if not, there are others on the forum here that will have them uncut. (BTW that is the same style plate I lost the bet with Charlie on.)
- Yep that is the 25hr lamp. It will do about a 10 foot wide screen ok. Its biggest drawback is that like any incandescent, at end of life it blows out when you switch it on. When I worked a room with these, I would always turn the lamp on the incoming projector on a few minutes before the reel change to give me time to pop in a new lamp if I had to. Xenons of course stay on at all times between reels, but these you had to always shut it off after the reel was done to help keep the run hours down. If you are skilled enough, one could convert these to another type of lamp with longer life, or maybe even a Marc300 from a 16mm machine.
- That mechanism was interesting as shown from the drive side. The belt path should look familiar to those who know the Christie p-35's. Notice there was also on the pulley above the intermittent a centrifugal mechanism, looks like this one had a fire shutter type mechanism. I had not seen this in my time at UPC, and knowing Charlie that was there on the very early models to get the safety lab listings, but was removed afterwards to save costs.
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