While these units are probably not very common anymore. If you’ve got a few sitting around, a gas stove, a heat gun, some aluminum foil, and you are bored keep on reading. I acquired a couple of these from a closing theatre. Neither of the units booted. They powered up but went no farther. The green buttons lighting up suggests the power supply is functioning. A simple meter test confirmed this. Upon looking at the motherboard inside the ACT one will see the relay section at the left, the main processor section in the middle, the NIC section at the right, and the power supply section at the bottom left. The problem, at least with both these units, is occurring in the CPU section. The CPU itself in fact is the problem. Both the CPU and NIC chips are mounted to the board using a form of electronic connection known as Ball Grid Array, a format where the connections of the chips are underneath the IC in the form of small beads. The chip is coated in flux then heated. A machine puts the beads on the chip and it is heat smelted onto the board. These birds are RoHS compliant which means that they use lead free solder which in the electronics world is an absolute nightmare. These units were manufactured in the early to mid 2000s around the same time the XBOX 360 suffered the RRoD. Essentially what is happening is heat cycling is causing these crap BGA solder beads to crack. This causes the CPU chip to lose connection to the motherboard and stall the boot loader when powered up. Looking at the board, the chip in question has the word “coldfire” on it. Place a piece of aluminum foil on a stove burner, remove the battery from the board and place it on top of this and light the burner and keep it as low as possible. You are only get the board decently warm. Now you want to cut a hole in some
more foil just slightly bigger than the size of the CPU. Place that over and around the CPU and proceed to heat it with a heat gun. I had luck after about 20 straight minutes of heat with my little 300 watt RadioShack heat gun. You don’t want to over cook it, the goal is to get the solder under the chip just molten enough to reflow. Usually surface tension will keep the chip in place as long as it’s level and you don’t bump it. Let the board cool before attempting to power it up. Once I re-powered it I was surprised to see the ACT spring to life. So far, after a couple of weeks of tinkering with it, it has continued to function. Your mileage may vary. It may take a few tries to make it permanent. It took me about four attempts each time I heated it longer each time.
more foil just slightly bigger than the size of the CPU. Place that over and around the CPU and proceed to heat it with a heat gun. I had luck after about 20 straight minutes of heat with my little 300 watt RadioShack heat gun. You don’t want to over cook it, the goal is to get the solder under the chip just molten enough to reflow. Usually surface tension will keep the chip in place as long as it’s level and you don’t bump it. Let the board cool before attempting to power it up. Once I re-powered it I was surprised to see the ACT spring to life. So far, after a couple of weeks of tinkering with it, it has continued to function. Your mileage may vary. It may take a few tries to make it permanent. It took me about four attempts each time I heated it longer each time.
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