Welcome to the new Film-Tech Forums!
The forum you are looking at is entirely new software. Because there was no good way to import all of the old archived data from the last 20 years on the old software, everyone will need to register for a new account to participate.
To access the original forums from 1999-2019 which are now a "read only" status, click on the "FORUM ARCHIVE" link above.
Please remember registering with your first and last REAL name is mandatory. This forum is for professionals and fake names are not permitted. To get to the registration page click here.
Once the registration has been approved, you will be able to login via the link in the upper right corner of this page.
Also, please remember while it is highly encouraged to upload an avatar image to your profile, is not a requirement. If you choose to upload an avatar image, please remember that it IS a requirement that the image must be a clear photo of your face.
Thank you!
We always put a T in the exhaust fan output with 2 motorized dampers during heating season the fan blows into the theatres return air plenum recovering the heat during the summer they vent outside
I worked on installing a dimming system in a live theater in Salt Lake City where there were return air ducts above the lamps they used to recirculate the heat from them back into return air. It worked well and the Architect got some sort of award for doing it. Of course today, almost all that lighting stuff is LED so the return of any minuscule amount of heat is pointless..
If the exhaust was directed outside, I also often installed an inline damper after the output of the Fantech in places that were really cold.
The problem with using the existing exhaust duct if the fan on the roof isn't running is you are, essentially, plugging the end. The air has to push through the fan to get outside. You get a hot stack in the booth (and the entire run. Honestly, I don't care what you do, that is up to you.
As to the 12C and overcooling, with an 8" fan...that isn't possible. The 12C is only cooled by air. The plate at the end of the light pipe can easily be damaged from too much heat...it will lose its reflectivity and then start to be a heat collector instead of a heat reflector and then you'll get over-temp errors for the light pipe. If the booth is getting hot already (or warm) well, that is what you are cooling the projector with already, which isn't a great condition.
not liking the idea of exhausting into the booth - adding extra heat to booth....
If you blow into the booth, you're not getting fresh and dusty air from outside. Unless you have a very capable (hepa) filter on your intake, re-circulating the air WILL extend the life of your optics. Obviously you'll need a capable HVAC and that will cost some money but I've serviced projectors where the air was being re-used and always found the projector and its guts spotless.
Venting to the outside can always be an option if the HVAC fails.
Tweet
Comment