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Hello all. Hoping for a second opinion here. We have a Barco DP2K-32B with Doremi and IMB. I came in this afternoon to a red tail light on startup with the IMB-service door tamper event code. The unit had not been opened since the last show. I tried to clear only to find that we have the button problem as well and was able to clear using communicator getting green buttons but the red tail remained. Tried reseating the board several times and used deoxit, finally getting a green tail light that lasted all of a few minutes before going red again. Tech suggests new IMS as the IMB is d/c. Kind of a hard pill to swallow on a lackluster year so I'm grasping for a straw here. Any thoughts? Does anyone know of used IMB's that would be available?
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So as a follow up, after talking to Barco directly, they suggested pulling and reseating all of the boards. According to them, the tamper switches are somehow all interconnected and an error on one board may be the result of an error on another board actually. There was a bit of an accent barrier and I am somewhat hard of hearing, so that may not be exactly what he said, but their suggestion worked so far. We already cancelled for tonight so I'm going to thermal cycle things a few times watching some encrypted content and see if anything changes. -
The card cage tamper switches are optical sensors on the backplane (the vertically mounted board at the back of the card cage), so one of those could have gone bad.
If you still have the cover plate that should have shipped with the projector, then if you pull the IMB, replace it with the cover plate, clear the tamper, and it stays cleared, that would suggest an IMB fault. If it refuses to clear, or throws a tamper after a few moments, that would point the finger at the backplane.
The backplane is not a pricey part (by Barco standards), but replacing it is one of the more difficult and fiddly part swapouts on a Series 2 Barco. I'm sure Steve will back me up in opining that they are one of the more common parts to fail on a DPXK-B.Comment
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Huh? Did someone mention me?
First off...the IMB/IMS or Enigma (SDI based system) is the security manager for the projector. You will NEVER get a red taillight due to tamper without one of those in place. You will get a very loooooonggggg boot up without one as it desperately searches and waits for it. Since the IMB is your security manager...ALL tampers will be IMB type tampers as it is the thing reporting the tamper. A security door tamper can include any of the mechanical switches that monitor the light engine compartment as well as any of the boards that can report that they have left the building...er card cage. Technically, only a marriage tamper should require remarrying a projector but in order to clear a door tamper, you are going to set off a marriage tamper but technically, there are two levels of tamper.
When in doubt, always reseat the CCB, ICP and IMB. If you have SDI, also reseat the Enigma (CAREFULLY). Clear the marriage tamper and see how long it takes to come back. If it takes a year or more...move on with life. If it comes back in weeks to a couple of months...Leo is right, the signal backplane is your enemy. I've changed out many of them. You only get so many reseats before those connectors will never make a good connection again.
Don't forget about the door switches on the light engine too...they CAN cause a tamper. There are two of them back there and they, ultimately, plug into the signal backplane. I've actually had an internal trace on the signal backplane fail for one of those switches! The odd thing is, Barco has them wired Normally Closed...so a closed switch causes the tamper...unplugging the switch should clear the tamper. Changing the signal backplane fixed the problem (only had one of those).
DeOxit (G5, D5 and even G100), if applied properly, can help. By applying properly means you need to let it cure (haze over). I will, sometimes, apply...quickly insert the board and then remove so the signal backplane connector gets some. Do not marinade the board/connector in that stuff. It should not "soak in."Comment
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Thank you both for the reply. When I was finally able to get started last night I was met with odd colors on the screen, almost like pastel's. I've had that several times in the past and reseating the boards once again fixed that issue and I was able to play through 2 movies last night, letting things cool off for 30+ minutes in between. Colors looked good both times. Were going to open tonight and see how things go.
As to the optical switches, are we talking about the little black pieces sitting up against the connectors on the board? I don't remember seeing anything else on the backplane. Is there any chance that they could be dirty and need cleaned?Comment
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The odd colors is always going to be the ICP and its bazillion connections. It is, by far, the biggest culprit to strange picture/color issues. Applying DeOxit (again, a little is better than alot and let it haze over) will help in that department but if the problem comes back in 2-months or less, the signal backplane should be changed.Comment
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It's funny that you mention 2 months... The color problem this year first appeared on 6/29 and again on 8/30. I can't remember if I applied DeOxit on 6/29 but definitely did on 8/30. I did let it haze over before reinserting. I did not insert it when wet to apply to the internal connections as suggested above. I will do that if it happens again.
Another post from a while ago mentioned that humidity may play a role here. Is there a recommended number to shoot for? I brought an old fashioned hygrometer out today that is showing ~70% after being in the booth for several hours during the show tonight. I have no idea how accurate it is, I may bring another to compare.Comment
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