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Tokiwa T-60 manual

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  • #16
    Kinoton Oil should be fine. Be prepared to go through a lot of it.

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    • #17
      Sorry about the delay , here’s the pic of the sight glass showing the oil level
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      This gallery has 1 photos.

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      • #18
        Just be prepared fot the oil leak around the nut securing the sight glass to the intermittent case. Unless there had been any liquid gasket applied around the thread it will eventually leak oil, and it will leak badly. In fact oil will leak from ALL shaft ends around the cage, yuck.

        I had disassembled it once and found out that oil spiral on all shafts will pump the oil AWAY from the case, instead of pumping the oil back into it. Since there's no oil return path for the pumped out oil no wonder that why it keep leaking oil like crazy.? And intended "feature", or just design flaw? I honestly don't know...

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        • #19
          Best to get rid of it before you ruin any valualable film. The roller framing system is also trash. And vertical steadiness is awful.
          The funny thing is the larger Tokiwa projectors for cinemas are completely the opposite. They are fantastic projectors.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Jonathan Wood View Post
            Sorry about the delay , here’s the pic of the sight glass showing the oil level
            Thank you for the picture, my projector does not have a sight glass...it's interesting it has a different design, on mine it's hard to figure it out the oil level, I am using a long toothpick to check the level.

            I figured it out my projector, it's in working order now, with stereo optical sound, and yes, it's leaking oil, it gets hot, but I have not experienced (yet) the vertical steadiness issue.
            Last edited by Adina Handrau; 02-03-2025, 09:31 PM.

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            • #21
              I am now trying to figure it out the aperture plates, the one I have slides in a groove on the plate; from the looks of it, I think it was custom made.

              Do any of you have a source or know someone that can fabricate aperture plates?
              Thank you in advance.
              Attached Files

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              • #22
                I am thankful for this community, a special thanks goes to @Nantawat who was kind to provide great pointers on the intermitent and other "gotcha" on this projector

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                • #23
                  I think your aperture plate is the standard one for this projector . A very ‘eccentric’ design as you can’t alter it without removing it . I think scope is fully open and if you remove the plate you get silent/full gate. Out of interest I ran mine at the weekend and it didn’t seem to leak any oil , I let it run for a while and oil was still up to sane point next day . Maybe it’s been treated with a sealer, which you could try if you haven’t ? Don’t get me started on the douser, now that’s a real genius design !

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Adina Handrau View Post
                    I am now trying to figure it out the aperture plates, the one I have slides in a groove on the plate; from the looks of it, I think it was custom made.

                    Do any of you have a source or know someone that can fabricate aperture plates?
                    Thank you in advance.
                    That's probably how the aperture plate "works" in this machine. In order to change the aspect ratio you'll have to change the plate, which is nothing more than a thin sheet metal cut to the shape - any machine shop should have no problem replicating it. The more concern is in order to change the plate, if my memory is correct, is that there's absolutely no way to do it "on the fly". You'll have to stop the projector, and have the whole film gate removed like that just to change that darn plate. No other way round it -another design flaw (among loads of others) in my opinion.

                    Some local shops here offered the modified replacement gate part with the adjustable aperture plate. Hard to describe without the picture but imagine having two separate metal plate moving vertically by means of a lever (sliding them towards/away from each other) on the top of the gate so the "height" of the opening is adjustable. Not the most convenient approach since there's no hard stop to the exact height, but at least you can do it on the fly.

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