Simplex five star question

[Erik Lallucci]

Does anyone know how to take this section apart?

I have removed every set screw I can see but I am sure I am missing something?

thanks
Erik

[Erik Lallucci]

[Tony Bandiera Jr]

There is a set screw in the belt pulley (maybe even two) look between the teeth for the hole(s) You will need a very long allen head key to get to them.

Are you trying to change the bearings? Make sure you replace both of them.

Be sure to spray some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil in all of the setscrew holes and let that set. After that is done, you can GENTLY tap the shaft out with the head set as shown in your first pic. DO NOT strike it hard or with anything other than a rubber mallet or you can crack the casting.

[Erik Lallucci]

Thank you for the reply Tony! Yes, I am attempting to familiarize myself with this unit right now and eventually change the bearing and add a new V belt pulley.

The issue I had with this project is I could never locate a V belt pulley to drive reels. Everything else seems to be in good shape and someone on **** ***** said he did a non collared bearing swap and added v belt pulley with a set screw.

i just can’t figure out how that bearing is ‘pressed’ into that goldish plate in the picture. I feel like I have check everywhere for set screws, C clamps… but don’t want to damage anything as I usually will discover it was something stupid I just missed.
i do appreciate your reply and figure I’ll keep playing around with it to get it disassembled.

Thank you

[Randy Stankey]

Be sure to remove the Wodruff key. Use a small screwdriver and a jeweler's mallet. Tap, gently, on one end and it should rock out of its slot. You can, then, use your fingers or a pair of smooth jawed pliers to lift it out.

Put a couple-few drops of sewing machine oil (Three-in-One brand, etc.) around the outer edge of the bearing then let it soak in for a minute. Use a socket that exactly fits the silver, outer ring of the bearing to tap it out of the bracket using a small hammer. Make sure that the socket contacts ONLY the silver, outer ring. Keep the force perfectly perpendicular. Use only as much force as necessary and go a little at a time. It should go relatively easily once you get it to move. Of course, be sure that you've loosened/removed any set screws holding the bearing in place before you try to remove it.

Reassembly should be the reverse of disassembly. A tiny bit of oil (two drops on the end of a Q-Tip then wiped on) applied to the outer, silver ring of the replacement bearing will help it slide into place. You should be able to install the new bearing with finger pressure only but, sometimes, you might have to tap it into place. If you do have to tap it into place, remember that one wrong hit in the wrong spot can dicker that bearing in a heartbeat! You might not be able to tell just by looking. If the bearing does get damaged, it can cause a chain reaction of damage from the bracket, through the shaft and any parts attached, down the line.

Here's a trick for working on things with small parts... Use a shopping bag to keep small parts like e-clips and springs from flying all around the room. Remember Murphy's Law: The smaller the part, the farther it rolls!! Place your workpiece inside the bag and work through the opening. If a small piece flies away, the bag will likely catch it. A traditional, paper shopping bag on your desktop makes a nice "compartment" to work inside. IF you have to work on a part that's in place, you can use a plastic, Walmart bag and wrap it around the workpece with your hands inside.

I can't even begin to count the number of hours of crawling around on my hands and knees with a flashlight clenched between my teeth the "bag trick" has saved me!

[Erik Lallucci]

Thank you Randy, I appreciate all this info. I hope to give it a try in the morning.

Erik

[Randy Stankey]

Need I mention that you should remove the shaft and gear pulley, using judicious percussive technique, then brace the bracket on something sturdy so that you can drive out the bearing without damaging anything else. I assumed that it would be implied but you know what they say happens when you assume...

[Dave Macaulay]

If you're replacing a bearing you can drive the old one out from the inner ring, then discard it. Pressing a new one in must be done from the outer ring only or with a flat plate. In a pinch a drill press works as a limited force bearing press.
I've never seen a v-belt reel drive, as you noticed it would not be easily replaceable. Use a cut belting like Roundthane, with the little double ended clip thing made for it.

[Erik Lallucci]

Thank you as well for the info Dave.
when I was given these projectors years ago they were all 100% plater driven and didn’t have a belt pulley for a reel.. I spent years trying to locate the original “optional” part but haven’t been lucky with the find.

Another person gave me a solution they did with their soundhead to get a v belt pulley to work.. so I’d figure I would give it a try.

the optional part in the diagram is what I have been searching for …

[Dave Macaulay]

Yes. The spindle drive pulley. Do you have the reel arms?
Those were made optional when platters were everywhere. You could order a projector with it if wanted of course.
I don't have any, and although I can get most Millenium & 5-star parts if I need them, they're all from consoles just pushed aside for the digital conversions when the scrap dealer said they would take them for $200.00 each - meaning they charged that to carry them out. Lots of room so they just sit staring at the floor. Not likely they have that pulley.
You can get a standard pulley from somewhere like Mcmaster Carr. Measure the shaft for the bore size and estimate the diameter from that drawing. File a little flat in the shaft for the pulley set screw if it doesn't have one.
This is what we always used for spindle drive, the 3/8 size:
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ho...round-belting/

[Josh Jones]

Thank you as well for the info Dave.
when I was given these projectors years ago they were all 100% plater driven and didn’t have a belt pulley for a reel.. I spent years trying to locate the original “optional” part but haven’t been lucky with the find.

Another person gave me a solution they did with their soundhead to get a v belt pulley to work.. so I’d figure I would give it a try.

the optional part in the diagram is what I have been searching for …

Yeah, that was mine. I can provide pics if necessary, but it should be pretty obvious. The bearings get stuck over the years, and there is a set screw on the bottom of the cross plate assembly that holds the bearing in place. The machines I got from MTE were platter units as well. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do the pressure roller delete mod listed in the tips section of the warehouse. Outside of that and a serious cleaning and new belts, the machines should serve you well for a long time. I will post a how-to inverter drive for these and other projectors as well soon on here.

Replace those belts! They look pretty tired. You can get them on Amazon, 670-5M-15 round tooth sync belt for about $15 each.

Josh

[Ryan Gallagher]

A local machinist should be able to whip you up that pulley part if you can decide on the needed dimensions. Maybe someone has one that can take some measurements?

[Erik Lallucci]

Yes, thank you Josh. I have the parts on order you recommended. I should have set screw undone. I am thinking is is just stuck in there and I need to work it out like everyone said… hope to get back to it this week.

the unit I am working on is a dirty ‘practice’ soundhead I am using to get familiar with things.

The unit I hope to get up and running is much cleaner with Brad’s simplex roller fix I did years ago. I have good belts on my cleaner unit but good to know the Amazon link on where to order more.

Again, thank you for everyone’s help with all of this!

This is the unit that has been just siting in my film vault for almost 10 years…

[Ryan Gallagher]

She’s a Beauty. Did you throw full reels on her just for the photo? Was gonna say maybe avoid that for long term storage, don’t want to accidentally bend the reel arm spindles.

[Erik Lallucci]

Thanks. Yes a projector always looks better with reels for a photo opt. Lol

Making some progress on the test unit… finally got the plate off.. it was a tight fit like most folks said.