Protective Gear for Xenon Protection

[Frank Angel]

We use to have a source for Tvylar jackets that we used when changing Xenon bulbs. I think the first batch were actually purchased thru Osram. was looking for a new source but what I could find, didn't look they would offer much protection from an actual bulb explosion. In fact, as I look into this now, I am actually thinking that perhaps we were all just lulled into thinking those Tyvek jackets were more for psychological purposes rather than if they actually would stop an exploded shard of quartz headed for one's chest or stomach. No one ever really ever showed me any studied down to quantify how much pressure or impact that flimsy thing could actually withstand before failing. I have been looking at Kevlar jackets, but they are wildly expensive and I know we never spent that kind of money on protection for changing Xenon bulbs.

I can find a myriad of work glove manufacturers with different levels of "cut resistance" ratings for gloves -- A4, 5, 6, etc., but no such ratings for Tyvek...a "puncture resistance" rating perhaps? Heave duty face masks are available by the truck load, so no problem there. It's the protective jackets that I am looking for that I know actually offer some real safety and then where to source them..

What are you guys using and if they are not actually rated in any factual way, are they approved or recommended by Osram or any of the lamphouse manufacturers? .

[Frank Cox]

I don't know about other materials, but Kevlar has an expiration date.

[Ryan Gallagher]

Our kit is just a full covering leather welders smock (apron plus long-sleeve half-shirt upper), face shield, and welding gloves.

[Randy Stankey]

Just wear a heavy Carhartt jacket like construction workers wear.

If it's sturdy enough to protect a person on a construction site, it's plenty sturdy enough to protect a person from flying glass and things.
Just be sure to zip it all the way up and make sure you're wearing your face and eye protection as well as a pair of sturdy, leather gloves.

[Marcel Birgelen]

I don't know about other materials, but Kevlar has an expiration date.

That's only the case if they're worn outside and all the time. Kevlar is prone to degradation due to UV exposure. Kevlar in non-UV-exposed applications will often last you a lifetime.

Kevlar, if correctly applied, is pretty spike resistant, which is what you're looking for in those cases.

[Steve Guttag]

Use Ushio lamps and don't worry about it so much!

Really, the bulk of what you are trying to protect yourself from is the flying glass/quartz. The most exposed portion of your body is your hands (they are touching the lamp and working the electrical connection with some degree of torque). Your chest, while large in area, is exposed pretty short and not likely to take on significant bombardment. Your face has the most delicate parts (eyes, in particular but there are some areas you'd rather not be cut too).

So, a full face shield that covers you neck is a good thing to have. It need not be so thick unless you plan to put the lamp right up to your face. The gloves are a tough one for me. The full leather thing has such poor feel that one loses "touch" with the lamp and can fumble it that way too. I've taken to using no-cut gloves that are more akin to what a chef would use. Certainly less protection but I don't lose the feel of the lamp either. I have and do use a leather jacket but I've also used just a regular jacket and pull the collar up to, again, protect my throat area.

I'm more than halfway serious about Ushio though. I don't worry about them exploding. I can't say the same for many other brands of lamps.

[Mark Gulbrandsen]

I know some local ordinances require the gear to be present on site... IE: In the Projection Booth, and operators, booth monkeys, or what have you, be trained in using said gear and properly changing lamps. Although I can say that it rarely gets used. I ran into this in Wisconsin years ago in Janesville, and once in Nevada when the FD did their booth inspections... I always included a set of the safety gear in any large equipment sale because it alleviates the dealer of any personal injuries that may happen to an individual when handling lamps, that according to my insurance guy back then (Cincinnati Insurance). Not even Chicago with their uber crazy fire codes required safety gear in the booth back then, 1980's. I hope that changed though.

But, I am with Steve on using Ushio!! If you break a Ushio lamp you should probably go work elsewhere!

[Randy Stankey]

I know some local ordinances require the gear to be present on site...

OSHA requires employers to provide PPE and train employees how to use it. Employees, per OSHA, are required to use PPE when needed but are not, necessarily, required to use employer-provided PPE. For instance, safety shoes: Employees may wear their own safety shoes and safety glasses (for obvious reasons, most generally do buy their own) but they might have to show documentation, either a card included with the shoes or glasses, when bought, or a tag attached to the items, that says they comply with standards, ASTM-123xyz, or some such.

I haven't got a clue what standard the PPE for handling xenon lamps would have to comply with, if there is a specific standard at all, or whether PPE simply needs to offer reasonable protection from "flying debris" such as that which might be encountered in an average manufacturing or construction setting. I feel confident, however, that a heavy jacket such as Carhartt or other similar brands will offer reasonable protection. They are commonly worn in shops and on construction sites to protect against the usual types of flying debris that are found in those settings. I can't imagine any kind of flying debris that would come out of a movie projector which would be more dangerous than anything that might be encountered in your average workshop.

When handling xenon lamps, I have always just worn a heavy jacket, zipped all the way up to the neck. Not just your average winter jacket. More like a hunting jacket or snowmobile jacket. When I was working for Cinemark, I just kept a Carhartt slung over the back seat of my car. When I needed to work on xenon lamps, I just went out and grabbed it out of the car.

For gloves, I just use the regular, heavy leather ones like you can buy at Home Depot, etc. I agree with Steve. They don't have good tactile feedback but you really only need them while actually handling the bare lamp. I used to take off one glove for loosening or tightening hardware but wore both gloves when actually handling lamps. Both gloves need to be on while removing the old lamp until it's safely back inside its clamshell and box. The same goes for when opening the box of the new lamp until it is properly installed.

It's, soft of, like the way you change a flat tire on your car. You loosen the lugnuts before jacking up the car then you put them back on, just snug, until you let the car down. You tighten the lugnuts after the car's weight is back on the ground. For a xenon lamp, loosen the screws and remove the cable connection then put on both gloves while you actually handle the lamps. Do the reverse at the end while you retighten all the cables and screws.

I also agree with Steve and Mark: Just buy Ushio!

[Mathew Bailey]

I was thinking for head & face protection a motorcycle helmet with a full face shield.

[Leo Enticknap]

Shameless sales plug alert: I don't know who we get them from (Sales handles that end of things), but we can supply an outfit of jacket, gloves, and visor, and sell several sets a year. Feel free to contact sales [at] movingimagetech.com or call (714) 751-7998 for details and a quote.

It's, soft of, like the way you change a flat tire on your car. You loosen the lugnuts before jacking up the car then you put them back on, just snug, until you let the car down. You tighten the lugnuts after the car's weight is back on the ground. For a xenon lamp, loosen the screws and remove the cable connection then put on both gloves while you actually handle the lamps. Do the reverse at the end while you retighten all the cables and screws.

A nice thing about the Barco lamphouse modules is that you don't even need to do that. You can attach and remove the cathode adapter and anode post with the lamp in its shipping "condom," meaning that you only need to wear the gloves and visor while moving the lamp in and out of the module.

[Ryan Gallagher]

I have to say I was surprised to see such a variety of responses here. Been in the industry that deals with xenon spotlights for 20 years, and everywhere, at least in my city, it's always the welding outfit version, and a full getup lives in the booths, and absolutely required to wear. Maybe this has something to do with the biggest venues being state university affiliated, and being more a rules following type entity, or IATSE influence.