Barco Series 2 Keypad Replacement

[Barry Floyd]

The membrane keypad on one of my DP2K-23B projectors died and I called in to my dealer to get a replacement. Seems the original membrane keypad has been replaced with a newer version with physical buttons. The new part they sent me is mounted on an aluminum plate and includes both the keyboard and the Dallas key module.

Looking at the DP2K-23B service manual (starting around page 442), the step by step instructions show a step to remove a ribbon cable from the existing board. I haven't opened up my projector yet to see what's in there, but the new part they sent me does NOT have a ribbon connector on the board. The new part number is R8767375K.
I just want to verify that I have the right part before I start tearing into the machine.

[Steve Guttag]

Yeah, that's it (and the new one doesn't include the cable, you reuse the old one).

The nuts are "nylocks" so be prepared with that. I don't fight it when I change them, I remove the whole plate assembly rather than work upside down and trying to make tools fit. Just need the allen key to loosen the 6 cap screws and if your projectors has the cable guides (Bs normally don't) free the cables first, you don't have to unplug them but I think there is a zip tied cable...cut the zip tie (not the cable).

Note, you are changing the whole plate assembly, not just the membrane board so you won't have a flat cable to contend with...just the multicolored cable plugging into, roughly, the center of the board that goes to the signal backplane.

You won't have to change the new one again. The only thing that ever fails with them are the multi-colored LEDs...so you might end up with odd button colors but the buttons will be functional.

[Leo Enticknap]

Agreed with Steve - take the right-angled plate out of the projector and swap the button module on the bench, to avoid the need for a contortion act. The only gotcha is to be careful not to guillotine any signal cables accidentally with the leading edge of the plate as you slide it back in. From memory (it's a long time since I've had to do one), you need a different driver head from the 2.5mm or 3mm Allen that is used for almost all the other internal fasteners within a Barco Series 2 projector to remove the button module from the plate, but I can't remember which one.

The older 'nipple" type button modules fail very frequently: that's why Barco introduced the ability to enter the tamper clear code via the Communicator app and then apply the Dallas key a few years back. Before that feature existed, if you needed to clear a tamper and any of buttons 1 through 6 had gone bad (assuming that the clear code had not been changed from its default), you were snookered. Before that feature was introduced, I would regularly change the default code (after asking the projector owner's position, obviously) to one that only required the use of a single button, so as to reduce the number of possible show-stopping single points of failure from 6 to 1.

Note that removing the L-shaped cover above the card cage, which is necessary to remove the assembly that holds the button module, will trigger a DCI tamper; so be sure that you have a known good Dallas key and the tamper clear code before proceeding.

[Barry Floyd]

Got the keypad installed last night. Not too difficult a job.

If I followed the service manual, it wanted me to take out the fan controller card and some other things that didn't really look necessary. I removed the top cover plate of the card cage, and triangular bracket that extends from the back of the card cage to the top of the keypad mounting plate. Only reason I removed that was to get better access to get my hands down in there. The original plate was held in with 4 - 5mm nyloc nuts like Steve said. Disconnected the wiring connector from the back of the old keypad and removed the whole plate. New plate slid right in and bolted up perfectly. Plugged the wiring connector back in and buttoned everything back up. Powered up the projector to a red tail light, did the Dallas key thing and entered the super secret tamper code password. Immediately cleared the red tail light back to green and everything works like it should.